How Much Is My Coin Worth? Here’s How To Find Coin Values

by

Joshua

Coin Values, Hobbies & Crafts

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When somebody asks me a question about coin collecting, they usually want to know about coin values. Specifically, they want to know what their coins are worth.

I love answering these questions, because they give me the chance to help somebody understand more about their coins. And I even get to explain what makes their coins valuable — or not so valuable, as is sometimes the case.

I’m going to explain to you how you can find the value of a coin and all the different factors that go into determining coin prices.  

Understanding Coin Values

four-pennies

Before I go any further, let me just release a blanket apology to all the folks who ask me about their 1935, 1944, or 1953 pennies and who inevitably learn their coins are typically worth only 5 or, maybe, 10 cents.

I know, it’s a bummer to find out that some 70- or 80-year old pennies are worth less than a modern day first-class postage stamp. That’s how I felt when I learned my first coin — a 1941 Lincoln wheat cent — was worth only a few cents, too.

Of course, not every old penny is worth just a few cents!

Consider the famous 1909-S V.D.B. cent, which is worth between $750 and $2,500, based on condition.

Why is that piece so expensive? Only 484,000 were made, and millions of coin collectors want one.

Those 5- and 10-cent value Lincoln wheat cents, on the other hand, were made by the millions. So they’re quite common, and there are certainly plenty to go around.

Check it out… Here’s a list of 43 U.S. pennies worth holding onto!

How To Find Out What Coins Are Worth

old-coin-values

There are many guides available that can help you determine the value of a coins. I usually use a combination of coin books and online coin value guides to help me derive a price estimation for those who ask me what their coins are worth.

We at The Fun Times Guide to Coins have a wealth of updated coin value information for you to enjoy.

Here’s a rundown of some of the many coin series we have values for:

These coin value guides can help you learn more about what the most expensive coins are for a given coin denomination.

There’s More To A Deciphering A Coin’s Value Than Date Alone

A lot of people ask questions like, “What is my 1921 silver dollar worth?”

Unfortunately, this isn’t really enough information for me to go on. Not all 1921 silver dollars are worth the same. In fact, there’s more than one kind of 1921 silver dollar!

There are two kinds of 1921 U.S. silver dollars:

1921-dollar

Each looks pretty distinct on the obverse (heads side). The Morgan dollar shows an image of a curly-haired Miss Liberty, while the figure on the Peace dollar strikes an uncanny resemblance to the head of the Statue of Liberty.

A typical 1921 Morgan dollar is worth around $20 to $30 in circulated grades, whereas the 1921 Peace dollar often has a value of $150 to $500 in the same condition.

Why the huge difference in price?

It has something to do with the mintage of those coins — or how many were made.

More than 86 million Morgan dollars were minted in 1921, whereas just a tad more than 1 million Peace dollars were made during that same year.

Far fewer of both silver dollars exist today due to melting, but there are still many more 1921 Morgan dollars than 1921 Peace dollars.

1921-peace

You also have to consider the coin’s mintmark (if it has one).

Take, for example, the 1916 Mercury dime:

  • A 1916 Mercury dime without a mintmark (meaning it was minted in Philadelphia) is worth around $3 in well-worn condition
  • A 1916-S (San Francisco) Mercury dime has a value of $5
  • A 1916-D, (minted in Denver), is worth $1,000 and up

The reason each of those 3 dimes is worth different values has to do with the mintage and relative supply/demand issues of those coins.

So, it goes to show that the date alone isn’t the determining factor of a coin’s value.

Why Grading Matters When Determining Coin Values

A coin’s state of preservation is another key factor in determining value.

For example, an 1886-O (New Orleans) Morgan silver dollar is worth about $25 in a grade of Very Good-8, which is a well-worn grade corresponding to a heavily circulated coin. That same coin in MS-65 — pristine uncirculated condition — is worth $300,000.

This is also why it’s important to learn about coin grading — it will help you better understand the value of your coins. (These coin grading apps are a big help!)

So again, there’s really no such thing as “the” value of “a” 1886 Morgan dollar… or any other coin! Coin prices vary, depending on condition.

Grab a coin magnifier and a copy of the U.S. Coin Grading Standards book. Then, watch this video to see how to grade coins yourself at home:

How To Grade A Coin Yourself To Determine Its Value

While I hope this post has helped to educate you about the nuances of coin values, I’m glad to help answer any questions you may have about what your coins are worth.

So, please feel free to ask away on the comments section of any page here at The Fun Times Guide to Coins!

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184 thoughts on “How Much Is My Coin Worth? Here’s How To Find Coin Values”

  1. Do you have an e-mail address where I can send pictures of old silver dollars that I need some one to tell me if they look or are real . Thanks

    Reply

  2. Hi Joshua, I have a error quarter that looks like it may have been a copper penny on one side and quarter on the other. I have not been able to find anything like it yet. It is smaller and thinner and much lighter than an actual quarter. Sorry about the size of the pics lol I don’t know what happened

    Reply

    • Hi, Lori —

      It looks like what you have is a regular heraldic eagle reverse Washington quarter that had its obverse (head’s side) completely machined away. I suspect this may have been done as part of a gaffe/trick for an illusionist. In fact, there are many illusionist’s gaffe coins that look like this. It looks like the machined coin is about as big as a nickel, which may have been part of the actual illusion in some form or fashion.

      Thanks for the photos and for your question!
      Josh

      Reply

  3. I have 1800 silver coin Susan B Anthony with eagle wings spread in the shield in the chest and 10 arrows what would the value are the price be at 1

    Reply

  4. I have a coin that has the date 1855 and a face on the front, reverse side San Fransisco California with “fifty” written on the bottom. In the middle is an eagle with a shield. How much would it be worth?

    Reply

    • Hi, Brian —

      This may be territorial gold, or it could be a medal or replica of some sort, as there are several pieces with features similar to what you describe. A photo would help me ascertain this.

      Thank you,
      Josh

      Reply

        • Hi, Brian —

          What type of image are you trying to send? Is it a JPG or PNG? If it’s a TIFF or another format that either is too large or not a common file extension, it may not upload correctly.

          Good luck,
          Josh

          Reply

  5. Hi, Brian —

    I can’t say without seeing the coin and weighing it, but it appears to be a replica (perhaps gold plated, given the surface condition) of a Kellogg & Company San Francisco territorial, private-issue gold coin. I am especially suspect because the word “DOLLS.” does not appear after “FIFTY.”

    Replicas are worth a couple dollars (or base metal value, whichever is higher) to novelty/exonumia coin collectors.

    I hope this helps,
    Josh

    Reply

  6. Ihave 2 coins 1st one is dated 1917,has a hole in the middle, 25 CMES, 2nd one is dated 1850,isabel 2nd,20 reales are they worth anything ???

    Reply

    • Hi, Hillary —

      I’m not sure about this piece. I’m not too knowledgeable about ancient and medieval coins, which this appears to be. I’d suggest in this case trying a forum that may help you there: https://www.forumancientcoins.com/

      I’m sorry I couldn’t be of more help, Hillary.

      Good luck,
      Josh

      Reply

  10. Hi. I need some help to identify the value of several coins I have come to acquire. I keep trying to upload the photos but keep getting an error that the file is too large. I have 7 coins I need identify 4 Susan b Anthony’s, 1 1945 mercury dime, 1972 silver dollar, and a 1972 half dollar. Is there anyway I can email the photos to you? I really want to know the value so if it is valuable I am able to protect them the right way since I’m collecting them as heirlooms for my children

    Reply

    • Hi, Kyna —

      While the seven coins you listed are all considerably common and worth face value if circulated (EXCEPT for the 1945 Mercury dime, which is worth about $2 in worn condition), I urge you to check this list of coins out that are worth more than face value: https://coins.thefuntimesguide.com/us-coins/

      Good luck!
      Josh

      Reply

    • Hi, Colleen!

      This is a very nice off-center Mint error. It is roughly 20 percent off-center, yet the date still shows (very good). Something like this would be worth $5 to possibly $10.

      Best,
      Josh

      Reply

      • Thanks!! That’s pretty cool, I had always thought it was filed down until I found your page and started doing some research; I realized the whole face was shifted not an effect you would be able to produced by filing or grinding!

        Reply

    • Hi, Ted —

      I do see some signs of doubling here. May I see a close-up photo of the area around the date and also the reverse? There is are a couple known doubled die errors from that period and I want to see if there are any other diagnostics on your coin.

      Thank you!
      Josh

      Reply

    • This is a very interesting piece, Ted. May I also see an image of the entire obverse? I want to see the rest of the surface and determine what might be going on. Thanks!

      Reply

    • Hi, Ted —

      This appears to be post-mint damage that caused the loop of the “6” to get smudged up against the stem. I can still see faint traces of where the rest of the 6 once was. This piece is worth approximately 3 to 5 cents.

      Best,
      Josh

      Reply

        • Hi, Ted —

          Sounds like an interested post-mint damage collector — they are out there and that is a great offer. Definitely take it!

          Thanks,
          Josh

          Reply

  17. i’ve found an error with the year on my nickel, i think it’s supposed to say 2000 but instead it says 1000, how much do you think this would be worth?

    Reply

    • Hi, Joel —

      It looks like post-mint damage knocked off the bottom halves of the digits in the date of what appears to be a 1999 Jefferson nickel. It’s worth face value but it surely looks good for a coin that claims to be 1,016 years old!

      Best,
      Josh

      Reply

    • Hello, Grace!

      Would you please upload a photo of this piece? There are many replica coins out there, and I’m hoping to see if you have one of those or the very valuable ($8,000 and up) real McCoy.

      Best,
      Josh

      Reply

        • Hi, Grace —

          It’s unfortunately a tad bit difficult for me to tell with the resolution of the photo. Here’s the next thing we should try — weighing the coin. Finding out a coin’s weight is instrumental (not all-conclusive, but helpful) in finding out if a coin is authentic or not. A 1776 pewter Continental dollar should weigh 276.5 grains or 17.92 grams (give or take a few hundredths). Its diameter should be 40.6 millimeters.

          Beware there are many, many replicas out there, so going this extra mile is well worth the effort in determining if what you have is an $8,000+ coin.

          Good luck,
          Josh

          Reply

  19. Can anybody take a look at this pic? on the outer edge of his nose from top to bottom I just recently started this hobby and need some practice taking pics of coins! I found this 1985 today, I would greatly appreciate anything helpful. Is it a D.D.?

    Reply

  20. I just received a ton of old coins, some back into the 1800’s, passed down from my great grandfather. How can I find out if these are worth anything?

    Reply

    • Hi, Jess —

      Wow, it sounds like you may have some nice coins there. I’d suggest checking out this reference to begin checking out values and determine what you have:

      U.S. Coins Worth More Than Face Value: https://coins.thefuntimesguide.com/us-coins/

      Feel free to list a few of the coins you find most interesting and I can help you determine their values and provide more references to help you.

      Good luck,
      Josh

      Reply

  21. Here is a list of some of the coins I have. I’d love to know what you think:

    PENNY:

    1929, 1934, 1940, 1942, 1943, 1944, 1945, 1946

    INDIAN HEAD PENNY:

    1893, 1900, 1903, 1905, 1907

    NICKEL:

    1910, 1935, 1937, 1941, 1943, 1944, indian head/buffalo

    DIME:

    1917, 1919, 1920, 1924, 1934, 1936, 1937, 1938, 1939, 1941,
    1942, 1943, 1944, 1945, 1949

    SILVER QUARTER:

    1934, 1935, 1937, 1945

    SILVER HALF DOLLAR:

    1939, 1941, 1944

    SILVER DOLLAR:

    1902, 1920, 1921, 1922, 1923, 1925

    Reply

  22. My husband found a silver 1933 dime. This is really interesting because this was during the depression and there were none that were actually supposed to be made during the year of 1933. I have searched online but can not seem to find any information on it.

    Reply

  23. I am curious what you think Joshua about this 1890 Morgan Silver Dollar.

    I don’t have a lot of experience with coins (in fact very little) but I think it may have the quality of Extremely Fine? I looked up the XF price of one of these, says it is around $25, not sure though.
    I personally think I am just being overzealous about this… anyways, here are some pics, let me know what you think.

    https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/785f4934e7b5254d9941545348e384e3a90c54f82a0e1a5fabbb01728a75d486.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/03c284c7cd32c36ab9c2770832cde5215ce7ed37f6e9dd7c6bb78907a98b1bf6.jpg

    Reply

    • Hello, Kurt —

      This is a really nice 1890 Morgan dollar that I would also agree grades in the Extremely Fine range. Such a piece is worth about $30 to $40.

      Great coin!
      Josh

      Reply

        • Hi, Dyllon —

          Yes, I agree – I think the coin wasn’t weakly struck, per se, but rather exhibits a late die stage or is a filled grease error. It would take an in-hand examination by a coin variety specialist to know for sure, but I’d suggest keeping this coin and believe that in any case its value would be nominal over face value – perhaps 25 cents to $1 to an interested Lincoln cent variety collector.

          Best,
          -Josh

          Reply

  24. Your “coin values guide” has no search method to find my coins.There is no way to search for large cents,three cent nickles,half-cents,etc…etc…etc…I couldn’t even find “racketeer” nickles or twenty cent coins.
    Thank you anyway for some interesting articles.

    Reply

    • Hello, Myles!

      We really appreciate your feedback. As the site continues to evolve this is something we could consider adding. I am glad you enjoyed the articles nevertheless and I hope to hear from you again.

      All my best,
      Josh

      Reply

    • Hi, Josh —

      This is certainly a post-mint alteration but I unfortunately have no clue on the origin of the marking.

      I wish I could have helped more,
      Josh

      Reply

    • Hello, Mayo —

      These appear to be replicas of early United States dollar coins that are worth their metal bullion value. The 1986 Statue of Liberty dollar, if it is authentic, is worth about $15.

      Thank you for your question and the photos,
      Josh

      Reply

  27. We have a sacagawea dollar that says 2000P and has an eagle on the back. It has been in circulation and has some discoloration. We stumbled upon it and I was wondering if it was worth looking into.

    Reply

    • Hi, Molly —

      It looks like somebody (may have) antiqued the design detail, but that would be a post-mint alteration and the coin is worn and quite common as far as the date and mintmark are concerned. While you don’t find too many Sacagawea dollars in circulation, because it is a highly common coin and is worn with no apparent Mint-related issues it is worth face value.

      Thank you for your question and photos!
      Josh

      Reply

    • Hi, James!

      I saw the images of your very nice chocolate brown (nice original color) 1944 Lincoln wheat cent. It’s worth about 5 cents and is a nice World War II-era relic worth hanging on to for the future.

      Thank you for your question,
      Josh

      Reply

    • Hello, Mohamed —

      It looks like your piece is a private-mint, relatively recent token (despite its 1851 date) that combines features from the Indian Head cent (first minted in the 1850s), $1 gold coin (also of f the 1850s), and looks something like the overall appearance of 1860s Civil War tokens. I’m not sure on the exact value of this specific piece, but I know similar tokens in base metals such as copper and aluminum usually sell for between $1 and $5.

      I hope this info is helpful,
      Josh

      Reply

    • Hello, Mohamed —

      A circulated 1884 Morgan dollar normally is worth about $17 to $20 with current silver values, however I’m not sure if this one is authentic. The spacing and shape of the lettering on this piece, appearance of the strike, weakness of design details, and other minor issues suggest this might actually be a replica, and perhaps a cast piece. In that case, it would be worth only the coin’s metal value.

      Best wishes,
      Josh

      Reply

    • Hi, Brick Boss —

      You have a 1979-D Susan B. Anthony dollar. While these are unusual coins to most collectors today who don’t recall them in circulation in the late 1970s and early 1980s, they are actually very common and are mostly held in collections and bank vaults these days. Circulated examples such as this one are worth face value, or one dollar.

      Still, these are neat coins and I have several myself. If you like it, I’d suggest keeping it.

      Best wishes,
      Josh

      Reply

    • Hello, Amit —

      I’m not well versed in coinage from India, but based on the research I did to assist with this reply, it appears this piece is worth between $2 and $5.

      Best wishes,
      Josh

      Reply

    • Hi, Brickboss —

      Based on what I see in this one photo, it looks like you’ve got a German 1 Pfennig. Circulated examples like this one are worth around 15 to 30 cents.

      Cool coin!
      Josh

      Reply

    • Hi, BrickBoss —

      This nicely circulated 1946-S Lincoln cent has some nice original color to it. Its value is about 5 to 10 cents and it’s definitely a keeper — wheat cents are getting harder to find in circulation these days.

      Cool find!
      Josh

      Reply

    • Hi, Paul —

      I’m afraid I don’t see any photos associated with this question. Would you mind reposting any images of the coin you are asking about?

      Thank you!
      Josh

      Reply

  47. Hi….

    Ive a question about a 1909 VDB. It has a beautiful honey/yellow/gold tone to it that is a matte type finish. It appears near perfect, based on my vast few months of experience. 🙂 So, I wanted to see what you thought about it….it’s just so pretty.

    https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/be57970135dfc7adaffb798d29e64547e947ebc35b58266f25fd61c71416bc96.jpg

    I couldn’t load but one photo….hope it makes it worth getting more. I appreciate your time, thoughts and opinion. Thank you so much.

    cathy

    Reply

    • Oh…I forgot the main reason for sending the above photo of the 1909 vdb….I wondered if this is a proof or not. The texture of the finish….color….everything about this coin is just a little different from the rest. I didnt want to list it on eBay and regret it later.

      Thank you again!

      cathy

      Reply

      • Hi, Cathy —

        Frankly, I don’t know if you’re going to really get what this coin is worth without getting it certified. Buyers are becoming increasingly wary of buying raw, high-end coins online, sight unseen. Certified coins usually sell for more in the same grade than their raw counterparts. As for whether it’s a proof or not, the rims appear squared, suggesting it’s a proof. However, I’ also need to see the surface details up close to see if there’s any evidence of the strong strike seen on matte proofs. Again. this determination could be made by getting the coin certified.

        I hope you find this opinion helpful,
        Josh

        Reply

  48. Not to be a pest…but I can find nothing on this coin. It is a simple 1935 S Peace dollar on the obverse, however, look what happens when you turn it over! Do you know what the initials are for?? Thank you so much!!

    cathy

    https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/9c7e65da3acbe3f101dddc83f8332db4e0af8a3f887757a1778920593989bc57.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/1c0df5f94b50b8af39010e46ee9f48438c3e0a02f683e69bdb1ed0860592b855.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/14566466b366628346f552b6dbfe03d85e22faf653f458d74ee4c90790b91445.jpg

    Reply

    • Hi, Cathy —

      You’ve found a counterstamped Peace dollar, or in other words a regular 1935-S Peace dollar that was stamped outside of the Mint. These are really neat coins because they were often counterstamped so the coins could be used as merchant tokens, etc. Sometimes, such coins are worth even more WITH the stamps than without, if the origin of the stamp can be verified AND if there is demand for that particular counterstamp. As it stands, your coin is worth at least around $18 to $20. However, if someone in the collecting community more familiar with mi-century novelty coins/altered coins has any details on that particular stamp and the origin can be determined (as is sometimes the case), the value could be much more. If I were you I’d hang on to this coin…

      Best wishes,
      Josh

      Reply

  49. Oh…figured out I can load more than one photo, so if I may….I wanted to send you more photos of the first 1909VDB I sent (below), wondering if it’s a proof….and actually a second one that makes me wonder the same thing (if it is also a proof) after researching red book and sites. I know they are rare to find, but these were together when I got them and they both just look so different than most I see. I so very much appreciate your input and will definitely send these off to be graded, as you suggested.

    Thanks so much!!

    cathy

    https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/c2602f0e73e0303ebe3a21a739c42512ad60cc90a7fd4092f80065a620456972.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/d030f80b0d06f8251777d4c938fb3a9a960304634486ed1776e8a8148b875f8c.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/692012cfb104b88909e4c9294ad46986e29f0c605ce544f3175f263718e61329.jpg
    https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/020ae7fe0af86aec8a83edc589bebd4eef196da6e765655cb72afa3831dc500c.jpg

    Reply

    • Hi, Cathy —

      These look like they’d be stunning coins in-hand — they are surely beautiful in photographs, no joke. Awesome strike, color, and surfaces. IT’s hard to say from the photo if these are proof (so, as you say, well worth going for certification) but barring the discovery that these coins were in some way doctored (altered/cleaned/etc.) many years ago, these should come back with some nice grades and, hopefully, a proof designation.

      Fingers crossed!
      Josh

      Reply

      • Thank you so much for taking time to look at them and replying. I will get them off to one of the grading companies you mentioned tomorrow and anxiously wait to see what they have to say. Oddly enough, they both came from the same roll….. I will update after grading! 🙂
        cathy

        Reply

        • You’re welcome, Cathy! I’m looking forward to the update — it’s always fun to hear how these finds resolve once they’re evaluated in-hand by the big certification companies.

          Have a great day,
          Josh

          Reply

  50. Hello Josh…I promise im not trying to ask too many questions, but is this a 1958 double die penny? There seems to be some double imaging on some of the words IN GOD WE TRUST and on the reverse….and then there is the beautiful toning! OMGosh…it is just so pretty! Is it a special penny?

    Then there is the 1901 IHP….it has these weird places on the rim….what is that!? I don’t even know how to try and look up what that is! 🙂 Thank you so much….again.

    cathy

    https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/266cc95bb2f91ca57523b9c605bdff9b6ae7e14f97dc913be39824c9ecaa7e12.jpg
    https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/c1c164be3e54847b60ebe03757665e8fb0a971a9895c657c916f3c45b1779ddb.jpg
    https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/946dc2a366b32f026f427c10a52e7e8bd1289f665570789957d97c67221f4a04.jpg
    https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/17cd67cee93b8e0a929284fed30fddeb452734caeb55cc0ac7ba99b7fc1a441b.jpg

    Reply

    • Hello, Cathy!

      No worries — I’m glad you’re asking questions and trying to learn more about your coins. The doubling on the 1958 cent may be machine doubling, but it’s not THE 1958 doubled die cent that you may have heard about. Here’s a link with photos that discusses the 1958 doubled die cent rarity: https://koinpro.tripod.com/Articles/1958DoubledDieCent.htm

      Yes, the toning on your 1958 cent is stunning. I can’t tell if it’s retoning after a long-ago cleaning or what, but it’s pretty!

      The rim of your 1901 Indian cent appears flattened in a fashion common with coin jewelry mounts, though I’m not 100% sure without seeing the coin in-hand. I must comment on how nice the surfaces of that piece is! Very nice original, red-brown toning!

      Best wishes,
      Josh

      Reply

  51. Hey Josh….Remember how I said i would try not to bother you ….well, I really am trying. 🙂 However…. had to ask about this! I have a 1909 VDB that has an really big error on the VDB….it is not on the coin! Just three dots and hints of where the letters should be. Ive tried to find this error, but cant come up with any info. What would this type of error be considered? What does it do to the coins value? https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/d1023bcea6906e3d40dfd294bc68b0ad0d6a094d39cdfaba76fd0e8230be1742.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/9341053af7351a0660813db602d5c7e665211c0c3bbc430c15e53dd28e7e4107.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/29d4b322ab7910e5c62d028dc7e49ffb6c4ffbf045c05fb055e52c4eb3daa7fd.jpg
    As always….thank you so much!!

    cathy

    Reply

    • Hi, Cathy —

      You’re not bothering me! I’m looking at your well-photographed images and it seems the “VDB” initials are weakly struck, which is a fairly common issue with these early cents. This is still a beautiful example. It looks like it has minimal, if no, wear on the high points. In this case, I think the coin’s worth at least $20 if this piece is uncirculated (I can’t tell this in a photo alone since determining a coin’s grade, especially uncirculated grades, is best done in-person when viewing the coin at different angles).

      Best wishes,
      Josh

      Reply

    • Hi,

      This is not an original 1804 Draped Bust dollar, but rather a replica. It’s worth its metal value, perhaps $2 or $3. It’s still a neat model of the ultra rare 1804 dollar coin, which is one of the most famous coins in the world.

      Best wishes,
      Josh

      Reply

    • Hi, Dani —

      This coin appears to have some environmental damage/porosity. Therefore, I’d say its value is 10 cents, or face value.

      Thank you for your question and photos,
      Josh

      Reply

  54. Hi Joshua! I inherited several coins. a lot of them are graded by PCGS. is there anyway to utilize then sku coding on the graded casing to facilitate knowledge of the value; or will it solely be based on the grading? I learned that errors, rainbowing and mis-strikes are cause for increased value as well as low mintage rates and high demands. where is the best place to look for values? I have the Red Coin Book but it doesn’t show error coin values. (not that I’ve found anyway)

    Reply

    • Hello, Marie —

      You should be able to look up PCGS certification numbers on this PCGS verification page: https://www.pcgs.com/cert/

      While it would seem the value of your PCGS coins would be based solely on the stated grade, at the end of the day the coins are still only worth what the buyer is willing to pay, despite what is stated on the label. You will be glad to know that, in many cases, PCGS-graded coins actually sell for more than the standard retail values because many longtime collectors prefer coins graded by PCGS, which along with NGC and ANACS, is one of the oldest coin-grading companies around.

      I love the Red Book because it has one of the best, most comprehensive collections of U.S. coin data and is edited by many, MANY people, so its pretty sound. However, pricing wise the retail values listed are generally a little higher than typical retail (though not always), and even then what it offers is retail values — not the amount you would receive if you sold the coin.

      The values here at The Fun Times Guide run on the conservative side between dealer buy prices and retail prices. We cover most “raw” (uncertified) coins across the gamut of U.S. coins and keep up to date with the prices of most collectible coins in the circulated and average uncirculated grades. You might find this page helpful for those values: https://coins.thefuntimesguide.com/us-coins/

      For values of certified coins, one of the best places is Coin Dealer Newsletter’s Collector’s Price Guidance: https://www.greysheet.com/cdn-collector-price-guidance

      Good luck!
      Josh

      Reply

  55. Hello, Marie —

    Yes, there is some extra collectibility for First Day (and similar) labels, though exactly how much “extra” value these certified coins have is somewhat open to guessing, as the value of these coins (really, just about any coin) is only how much someone is willing to pay. Yes, some modern Lincoln cents ARE worth $1,000 and even much more depending more on the condition of the coin itself versus whether or not it was an early release. Believe it or not, in the very top grades (say, MS-68 or higher) there are sometimes only a few surviving specimens, even among modern circulation issues. Crazy, right? But, it’s true.

    It sounds like you’re educating yourself well by reading Coin World, perusing major pricing websites, and if I may say, keeping up to date here The Fun Times Guide, plus using other resources printed and otherwise. As for error coins, one of the neatest (and illustrated!) books is 100 Greatest Errors, by Nicholas Brown (Whitman Publishing, 2010). A great website is run by error coin expert and dealer Fred Weinberg, who sells and informs readers of error coins on his website: https://www.fredweinberg.com/ .

    For coin varieties, check out CONECA and John Wexler’s sites, listed below:

    CONECA: https://varietyvista.com/index.htm
    John Wexler: https://doubleddie.com/

    Another good resource are the books written by Bill Fivaz; you could check out his coin books by searching his name on Amazon or another major book retail site.

    Best wishes,
    Josh

    Reply

  56. Hi I have a silver 1965 quarter but it says 1065 the date is misprinted with a 0 not a 9 it looks like it stamped over the 9 so it looks like a 0 can u help me

    Reply

  58. My stepfather died and I got his coin collection. They are in a plastic baggie and there are well over 200 of them. How can I look up the coins easily? Like where I enter the coin information and it looks it up for me? The charts I’ve looked at so far are very confusing. Thanks so much for your advice.

    Reply

    • Hi, Lisa…

      I’m really sorry to hear about the passing of your stepfather… Please accept my condolences

      As for the coins you inherited, I think the best way to begin sorting out what types of coins you have and what they’re worth is if you could kindly provide a few photographs of groups of these coins. Maybe 5 or 10 images of, say, 20-30 coins spread out. This way I can get a sense of what you have and I can provide further guidance from there.

      Best wishes,
      Josh

      Reply

      • Thank you. I have gone through almost all of them and only see one penny that may be worth $80. The rest appear to be face value, interesting reading though. Now I have a 1934A twenty dollar FRN and a 1929 $20 bill to research.

        Reply

        • You’re welcome, Lisa. The $20s will carry anywhere from a slight premium over face to more significant values depending on the condition of the notes and the presence of any possible printing errors. If you wish to share a photo of these two bills (front and back) I can provide further insight. May I ask what penny appears to be worth $80? I can check this piece out for you with photos of the obverse (“heads”) and reverse (“tails”) to help you ascertain the coin value.

          Reply

  59. Hello Joshua!
    Thanks for your very insightful post. I can really feel your passion for coins. You mentioned that a typical 1921 Morgan dollar is worth around $20 to $30 in circulated grades, whereas the 1921 Peace dollar often has a value of $150 to $500 in the same condition. Is it true for the coins I attached? https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/e7ddee64a7dfcebbac9d8b2fd55b003c74c436185c9a172d87f329a0b80ed4f6.png https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/86e17a2bcc63be9697a8c95c7a86d722583626443b3947fbeace0073d7e33afe.png https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/a32f7fdfacc90459100d8ebb5ae837da1a44aaed8058898e6a95fca04be5089d.png https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/268ddd469b795dee0dbce377fdbfc79f5745b977ed901fca17528d79967e80c0.png https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/83f5fbaf5b104c820444c646310f341bf3b348e05443f6026522753f8ebf9d44.png https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/ee71a1290ade5a07a724732a5585328045dd7373126eb7516419b929b4567904.png https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/88b110b0aee18d9e358a2d85fdaba413e2234381fa948919d4b4cb19e403f781.png https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/0903639d37ec3b15e7f3b3b6cc03c63b4703b4c7ef764c9ab4640b92ac1ebff2.png https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/5793e29d4eb7f502c6e96ae9b9257f0e651e6c247fd9d70510a04523d91ac2a2.png https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/5befb757546d288ea51e4d4f45cefd8f69014691479c71173e41db5eaa9937a1.png

    Reply

  60. Hey Josh,
    I went coin roll hunting today and found a 1939 D Lincoln Cent in MS63 RB condition (Graded using PCGS Photograde). I couldn’t find a definite value on Coinfacts. Do you have any idea what it is worth?

    Thanks,
    Gulinky

    Reply

    • Nice find, Gulinky!

      Assuming the coin were to grade as you’ve determined from PCGS Photograde, your coin is worth around $2 or $3.

      It’s so fun to find old coins in rolls — especially when they look nice, too!

      Congrats,
      Josh

      Reply

    • Hi, Joan —

      It looks like your coin was either caught in a clothes dryer (upsetting the rim around the coin due to centrifugal force) or the rim was “spooned” (manipulated by someone who used a tool to push in the rim). You’ll probably be surprised how common either method of post-mint damage is. Either way, this is indeed post-mint damage and the coin is safe to spend as it has no additional value.

      Thank you for reaching out!
      Josh

      Reply

  63. Hi Josh
    My father-in-law recently passed away and I’ve inherited his coin collection.

    part of the collection has 54 proof sets. 1 is 1951, 1 is 1952, 1 is 1953. and the rest are 1954. All of the proof sets are in individual boxes with what appears to be the original tape they came in. 4 boxes have been opened with each box containing one penny, one nicke, one quarter, and one $.50 piece. Each coin is in a plastic bag and the bags are stapled together. I’m guessing that this is how my father-in-law receive them when he purchased them.

    Would these have any value?

    This represents only part of the collection and I guess the collection has me hooked on collecting coins. Could you please make any recommendations on where I should get started as far as membership in clubs, magazines etc.

    Thank you Chuck

    Reply

  64. Hello. I have a question pertaining to a quarter I found on the floor of my car.
    Let me start by first asking, have you ever heard of what they call a “SPITTING EAGLE QUARTER” ? Well when i first laid eyes on it it didn’t look like your average quarter. I assumed it was the silver quarter of my husbands i had accidentally put into a vending machine earlier in the week. I googled the quarter and examined it until my brain hurt and had others take a look as well and it looks legit, however would like some more outside opinions. Please and thank you.

    Reply

    • Hi, Autumn —

      Yes, I know the Spitting Eagle quarter! Pieces like this are usually caused by die breaks. If you could kindly post clear images of your coin here in the comments section so I can see what your piece looks like, I’d be glad to help you further in determining exactly what you have and what it may be worth.

      Thank you,
      Josh

      Reply

  65. Just a quick question, Ive been going through my coins and found 5 1970s dimes with no mint mark on them and a 1968 dime with out one as well. Now would these possibly be worth anything? Also I found out the the 1997 pennies are worth about $250 a piece due to Lincoln being printed with two earlobes, would this be true for all of those pennies? Thank you in advance!

    Reply

    • Hi, Tanner —

      Unfortunately the dimes you describe are all regular-issue Roosevelt dimes from the Philadelphia Mint, which did not stamp its “P” mintmark on dimes until 1980. The famous and rare no-S dimes referenced are errors found in special collectors sets.

      As for the 1997 penny, that would only be for errors involving the doubled die you mentioned — not all 1997 pennies.

      Best wishes!
      Josh

      Reply

  66. hi. i have a 1917 wheat penny that may have some defects that i’ve seen on some other sites. mainly a weak die punch, pitting and cracking. and off center. i was wondering if you can tell from some pictures. there used to be a place near me i would take something like this to but he shut down a couple years ago. thankshttps://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/eea3d4eb2e46c7f6fc73d23c00a5a0f8d9830f1c903345c6090546f939c6a5e0.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/cbeaae2b455a49a1521603f44cc4f1c5136725bef12c8b47c0f0930a8b8d6b74.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/620c50bea97f4cda5cc512559d5877df21f77a32b3986d6f4f3e0e59675c3ee1.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/bdb9e69bd43b6e8a9783d7a89bab2b40461ce23a4ca3b316c97e2e95dae1fc5d.jpg

    Reply

    • Hi, Dan —

      The weakness in the design is caused by wear rather than a weak die, and the pitting is unfortunately post-Mint damage rather than a defective planchet. It’s hard to tell from the lighting but the coin MAY have been lightly cleaned at one point, too. While in this condition the coin is worth perhaps 10 to 15 cents it is still a neat, antique, and obsolete collectible.

      Thank you for reaching out,
      Josh

      Reply

  67. thanks for the quick reply Josh. the search goes on for that elusive $1,000 penny. i take it you recommend NOT cleaning coins. i never have but i thought about it.

    Reply

    • Hi, Dan!

      Yes, cleaning coins is not recommended by any hobby professionals or most collectors because it reduces the value and numismatic desirability of the coins and also irrepairably damages the surface by removing its original patina and a thin layer of surface metal.

      I do hope you find that $1,000 penny… Many people have, so why not you, too?

      Good luck!
      Josh

      Reply

  68. I was looking online at value of pennies. some 1964’s are worth a lot. I can’t really tell by the pictures
    what makes them valuable it shows one worth 2,000 and one worth 35,000. I have this one not in the greatest of shape but can you tell me is it worth more than a penny?

    .

    https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/161a0e029d2bf1333c8fee5149ffc1111cfd5ef37c9f6d902c78126ae5889648.png https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/06f037fa5a5015fdb257aa28fd84c07e91fff185e4ab15ec4bfbfd7bc2572dc2.png

    Reply

  69. It must take decades to develop an eye that can tell a coins worth.
    I was looking at rare1964 Nickels because I have a 1964 of course.
    I can’t see a difference between them with worth ranging from $200 to $30,000.
    I have to show you the one I have of course:
    https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/354a83695376d56d8a5c145fb6a5a8a44c4245a6eb72f7b814e1ee9b69faf566.png https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/177e725df2744da36515c8c4824685b7835767c9357661b51f9e3daa50e4e85b.png

    Reply

    • Hi, Del —

      Your piece is unfortunately worth face value in this case because it’s a modern coin that has been worn, has surface damage on it, and contains no errors or varieties. However, determining which coin is worth face value and which can pay off the mortgage is generally a combination of the coin’s date, condition, and presence of any errors or valuable varieties.

      In the case of a 1964-D Jefferson nickel selling for thousands, it would only be the handful of coins at the very top point of mint condition and showing all details of the coin fully stamped.

      The VAST majority of uncirculated 1964-D nickels are worth 20 cents to $5.

      I know it’s not really the answer you’re looking for, but I hope it explains a little bit about the nuances of coin values.

      Best wishes,
      Josh

      Reply

    • Hi, Del,

      While this 1967 Washington quarter does retain much of its original detail, unfortunately it’s still worn. Circulated clad quarters of this period without any errors or varieties are worth face value.

      Best wishes,
      Josh

      Reply

  71. I have this 1979 silver dollar it looks in pretty fine shape.
    I get confused when I google coins it’s shows them worth large amounts and when I compare them they seem to look the same but they are not. I guess you need a trained eye like yours.
    When I checked one like this one it was on EBAY for $1300.

    Reply

  72. I have this 1943 penny that was in my fathers bank, that I inherited after his death in 1949. I have never paid much attention until the other day, when we were cleaning the bank and I realized, there was a major striking problem with this coin. https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/58e469e0b3c7565c3ae85eb4dab7944fc871f9ea22a654d3499fd0136f3ef128.jpg

    The 4 is basically missing and the D also has damage.

    Is it just worth the basic value due to the problem, or perhaps?

    Reply

    • Hi, Sam —

      It looks like the “4” in the date is largely absent possibly due to a strike-through error involving grease or another foreign material obscuring that part of the design on the die that struck that coin. Generally a strike-through error like this isn’t worth a whole lot — maybe a very small premium of a dollar or two a collector who specializes in these types of errors. But this is nevertheless an error.

      Neat find!
      Josh

      Reply

  75. Hi. I have a 1942 mercury dime as well as two Liberty Sacagawea 2000 P dollars. How can I tell their worth? Can I physically take them somewhere or send pictures to someone?

    Reply

  76. i have 63 Liberty Nickels “V” Nickels. Well Used id say.

    a 1905, 14 1908, 14 1909, 16 1910, 11 1911, and 7 1912
    How do i find someone with interest in these coins to sell them to.

    Reply

    • Hello, John —

      The dates you listed are all relatively common, especially in circulated grades, and are likely worth somewhere in the neighborhood of $1 to $2 each — less if they are corroded, cleaned, damaged, etc. However, there are many active buyers out there, including coin dealers. Here’s more info on how to find a reputable coin dealer: https://coins.thefuntimesguide.com/coin_dealer/

      Best wishes,
      Josh

      Reply

    • Hi, John —

      I’d love to help you, but we don’t provide such attribution services here; even if we did it would be difficult to confirm this being a Chapman proof by photos alone. Several of the critical diagnostics regarding strike and surface quality would need to be verified in-hand to confirm or rule out if this is one of the rare Chapman proofs. My best advice is to consider submitting this 1921 Morgan dollar to a grading service or variety attributor who can evaluate the coin in-hand.

      I know this doesn’t answer your question either way, but I hope at least this provides you with some suggestions as to where to go from here.

      All my best,
      Josh

      Reply

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