Mint Marks: Those Small Letters On U.S. Coins Explained

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There’s a lot of talk about “mint” whenever you’re discussing coins and coin collections!

Some examples:

  • First, there’s the U.S. Mint — which is the federal agency responsible for the production and distribution of our nation’s coinage.
  • Then, there are mint coins (or mint condition coins) — which refers to a coin that is in practically the same condition as when it left the U.S. Mint facility.
  • And then you have mint sets — which are collections of uncirculated coins for a particular year. (A mint set includes one uncirculated coin of each denomination from each U.S. Mint facility that produced the denomination during that year.)
  • And finally, you have mint marks (or “mintmarks”) — which we are focusing on in this article.

What Is A Mint Mark?

Mintmarks are small letters stamped on U.S. coins to designate where the coin was made.

The mint mark can affect a coin’s value!

In a lot of cases, where the coin was minted makes the difference between a coin being worth a few dollars and being worth a few hundred dollars!

Almost all U.S. coins have mintmarks — with the exception of some coins struck at the Philadelphia Mint and some error coins (listed at the very bottom of this article).

A List Of All U.S. Mint Marks

This is one of the many United States Mint facilities. See which coins each U.S Mint facility made. And what a U.S. coin without a mintmark means. (Some are rare error coins. Others are not supposed to have a mint mark.)
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C Charlotte Mint – North Carolina (gold coins only from 1838-1861)
CCCarson City Mint – Nevada (gold and silver coins only from 1870-1893)
D Dahlonega Mint – Georgia (gold coins only from 1838-1861)
D Denver Mint – Colorado (from 1906-present)
O New Orleans Mint – Louisiana (gold and silver coins only from 1838-1861 and from 1879-1909)
P Philadelphia Mint – Pennsylvania (from 1793-present)
S San Francisco Mint – California (from 1854-present, but from 1968 on it has primarily struck only proof coins and other special-issue coinage)
WWest Point Mint – New York (from 1984-present)

You can distinguish Dahlonega “D” coins from Denver “D” coins merely by looking at the date on the coin. Any “D” mintmark coins dated before 1906 are from the Dahlonega Mint. Those after 1906 were made at the Denver Mint.

The only mintmarks you’re going to find on circulating coins today are P (Philadelphia), D (Denver), and S (San Francisco).

All of the other U.S. Mint facilities either closed down a long time ago — or they only make gold coins and specialty coins today.

Here’s more info about current and former United States Mint facilities.

Where To Find Mint Marks On U.S. Coins

Over the years, mintmarks have been placed in all sorts of locations on coins.

I’m going to cover the most common coins that were ever in circulation — starting with the silver dollar and working back to the half cent.


Silver Trade Dollars – On the reverse underneath the eagle

Silver Peace Dollars – On the reverse, bottom left next to the tip of the eagle’s wing

Silver Morgan Dollars – On the reverse underneath the eagle

Silver Bust Dollars – On the reverse underneath the eagle

Kennedy Half Dollars:

  • Pre-1965 – On the reverse to the left of the olive branch near the eagle’s claw
  • 1968-present – On the front centered above the date

Franklin Half Dollars – On the reverse centered above the beam of the Liberty bell

Walking Liberty Half Dollars:

  • 1917-1947 – On the reverse, bottom left below the branch
  • 1916 & 1917 – On the front below the motto

Barber Half Dollars – On the reverse just below the eagles tail feathers

Seated Liberty Half Dollars – On the reverse below the eagle

Bust Half Dollars:

  • 1938-1939 – On the front above the date
  • before 1938 – All bust half dollars before 1938 have no mintmark

Washington Quarters:

  • 1968-present – On the front, bottom right next to the hair ribbon
  • 1946-1964 – On the reverse below the eagle

Standing Liberty Quarters – Small mintmark on the front just above the date and a hair to the left

Barber Quarters – On the reverse beneath the eagle’s tail feathers

Seated Liberty Quarters – On the reverse beneath the eagle

Bust Quarters – All bust quarters have no mintmark (Philadelphia)

Seated Liberty 20-Cent Pieces – On the reverse beneath the eagle

Roosevelt Dimes:

  • 1968-present – On the front above the date
  • 1946-1964 – On the reverse, bottom left of the torch

Mercury Dimes – On the reverse, bottom left of the fasces (column or pole looking thing)

Barber Dimes – On the reverse centered below the wreath

Seated Liberty Dimes – Some are located within the wreath; others are located just beneath the wreath

Bust Dimes – All bust dimes have no mintmark (Philadelphia)

Seated Liberty Half Dimes – Some have mintmarks within the wreath, and some have mint marks beneath the wreath

Bust Half Dimes – All bust half dimes have no mintmark (Philadelphia)

Jefferson Nickels:

  • 1968-present – On the front near the date
  • 1938-1964 – On the reverse to the right of the Monticello building
  • 1942-1945 (war nickels) – Above the dome of Monticello

Buffalo Nickels – On the reverse below the words FIVE CENTS

Liberty Head Nickels (“V Nickels”) – All V nickels have no mark (Philadelphia) with the exception of the year 1912 in which case the mintmark is on the reverse to the left of the word CENTS

Shield Nickels – All shield nickels have no mint mark (Philadelphia)

3-Cent Pieces – All 3-cent pieces have no mintmark (Philadelphia) with the exception of the year 1851 in which case the mark is on the reverse to the right of the Roman numeral III

2-Cent Pieces – All 2-cent pieces have no mint mark (Philadelphia)

Lincoln Cents – On the front beneath the date

Indian Head Cents – All Indian head cents have no mintmark with the exception of 1908 and 1909 in which case the mark is on the reverse beneath the wreath

Flying Eagle Cents – All flying eagle cents have no mint mark (Philadelphia)

Large Cents – All large cents have no mint mark (Philadelphia)

Half Cents – All half cents have no mintmark (Philadelphia)

And there you have it… now you know where to find the mint marks on all of your coins!

Here’s what the letters (mint marks) on U.S. paper money mean

U.S. Coins Without Mintmarks

Have a U.S. coin without a mint mark? See why some coins do not have mintmarks... and how to tell which U.S. Mint facility a coin was made in.
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Have a coin without a mintmark?

Unfortunately, mint marks have not been used consistently by the U.S. Mint.

For example, the Philadelphia Mint didn’t use the “P” mintmark for the first time until 1942 and wouldn’t use it regularly until after 1978. The only coins minted before 1979 that have a mintmark from the Philadelphia Mint are Jefferson nickels struck between 1942 and 1945 (a.k.a. war nickels).

See why a specific coin does not have a mint mark… and how to tell which U.S. Mint facility that coin was made in:

Identify your coins via diagrams, photos & definitions

Like this post? Save it to read again later… or share with others on Pinterest!

See the complete list of mint marks on all U.S. coins!
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129 thoughts on “Mint Marks: Those Small Letters On U.S. Coins Explained”

  1. I have two dimes one the year is 1845 and the other is 1945 with a woman face on one side i want to know where to take them if i want to sell them thank you for your help and my e-mail is msknight72@hotmail for any help lisa

    Reply
    • Thanks for your question, Lisa.

      Be sure to take your coins to a coin dealer; check your local phone directory or online for a list of coin dealers near you. Whatever you do, avoid selling your coins to a jeweler, a pawn shop, or a ‘sell your gold’ shop. They really don’t know much if anything about collector coins and won’t pay you what a coin dealer will.

      Reply
  2. What is the “M” on the standing liberty quarters mean. Located next to the bottom
    star on obverse side?…Marty O*

    Reply
  3. Josh, I just joined today and I appreciate the quick response to me questions! I have a complete sitting liberty “Type set” $1 to 1/2 cent. What’s it worth??
    Marty O*

    Reply
  4. I have two wheat penny, one1945 and the other 1936 but there is no S, D beneath the date ,and they’re not double die or anything . Is it worth anything. I also have a 1969 penny with an S beneath the date.Its not double date thought. Is it worth anything ?

    Reply
    • Hi Kevey,

      Your 1936 and 1945 wheat cents, which were made in Philadelphia (which has no mint mark on pennies), are each worth 3 to 5 cents. Not enough to justify selling them, but worth more than face value nevertheless and probably your wisest simply to hang onto them with the hope that in time they will be worth more or become contributions to a complete set of Lincoln cents.

      The 1969-S really isn’t worth more than face in collecting terms, though some people have been keeping all pre-1982 U.S. pennies for their copper value.

      Reply
  5. I have a 1945 walking liberty half dollar that is gold platted that has the mintmark of sanfrancisco on the reverse side down on the left but on the same side adjacent to it is a w what does the w mean if the s is the mintmark ? And what is it worth

    Reply
    • Tiffany,

      The W on your coin (which is worth around $10 to $15) is the initial of Adolph A. Weinman, the person who designed the Walking Liberty half dollar.

      Reply
  6. To whom it may concern,

    I have the following:
    – 1979 Susan B Anthony Quarter Dollar (Silver) that is mint marked “D”.. (14)
    – 1979 Susan B Anthony Quarter Dollar (Silver) that is mint marked “P”.. (7)
    – 2000 Sacajawea Quarter Dollar (Gold) that is mint marked “D”.. (2)
    – 2000 Sacajawea Quarter Dollar (Gold) that is mint marked “P”.. (4)

    Do I have anything? Hopefully, I have more than just $27 dollars in coins…

    Reply
    • To clear things up:
      > They’re dollars, not quarters, as you can see by looking at the denomination on the back sides.
      > They’re only silver- and gold-colored; the Anthony coins are copper-nickel and the Sac’s are manganese-brass

      That said, the 1979 proof dollar should be checked by a dealer or appraiser. There were two proof varieties that year. One is worth only about $5 to $10 but the other can exceed $50.

      As for the remainder, the bad news is that they’re standard circulation coins worth only face value. The good news, of course, is that you have an extra $27 to spend!

      Reply
  7. Also, one if the 1979 Susan B Anthony Quarter Dollars is (I think) known as a proof..
    It is placed in a mirror-like frosted capsule.

    Worth anything?

    Reply
    • Janine,

      U.S. quarters made from 1965 to 1967 were made without mintmarks and are not worth anything more than face value unless in mint condition.

      Reply
  8. i have a 1979 penny with the outline of Ohio  and inside the outline is OH. It is engraved to the right of Lincoln’s head, was this faked or is it a mint engraved marking?

    Reply
    • It’s a privately-made novelty item. It was part of a “state penny” set created by counterstamping normal cents with outlines of each state. There are a few niche collectors who might pay for a complete set in its original packaging, but numismatists consider them to be simply altered coins. Any that “leak” into circulation are simply curiosities / conversation pieces.

      Reply
  9. I have a 1921 silver Morgan Dollar, I have used a loupe to find the mint mark under the eagle, looks like a “M” or a “W”, according to which way you turn the coin.  Is this the mint mark, do you think it might be an “S”?  Guess you can tell I am new at this.

    Reply
    • “M” is the designer’s monogram – George T. Morgan, for whom the coin is named.

      The mint mark position is over the “DO” in DOLLAR on the reverse. IF there’s a mint mark, it’s quite prominent. The fact that you couldn’t see one indicates your coin was struck in Philadelphia, which didn’t use the current “P” mint mark until many years later.

      Reply
    • Hi, Shanan –

      Well, it is true that some D-mint coins are scarcer than their same-year Philadelphia-minted counterparts. This is especially true with coins from the earlier part of the 20th century.

      However, with tens of millions and even billions of coins being pumped out of both Philadelphia and Denver mints annually, there really is no reason to search out recent D-mint coins just for the sake of scarcity.

      Reply
  10. My daughter had a school assignment to find out what the letters on Abe Lincoln’s chest on a penny mean. I don’t see any letters there. Can anyone help?

    Reply
    • Hi, Jodi –

      I believe your daughter’s school assignment is referring to the letters “VDB,” a tiny feature appearing just below Lincoln’s shoulder and a set of initials that stand for Victor David Brenner, the Lincoln cent’s designer.

      Reply
  11. I have a quarter from 1968 and it has no mint marks below on right hand side next to the hair ribbon and the word United on the back of the quarter has a Mis-print the I and T in united is almost connected. You have to look real close with a magnifying glass to see its a possible T the I next to the N in united is connected too. So I have three letters that don’t have proper spacings

    Reply
    • Melissa –

      IN GOD WE TRUST commonly looks a little squashed on quarters from that era, so your coin sounds largely normal.

      Reply
  12. what is the letter mark d next to the chest of lincoln pennies its very faint found some on the 40’s and so 50’s its very faint but its a D

    Reply
    • Hi, Tom –

      The “D” is the mintmark for the Denver mint, which is one of a few United States Mint branch locations.

      Reply
  13. I have a 1938 walking liberty half dollar that has an N on it. It’s on the reverse side, lower right hand, under the eagle wing. Can you please tell me if this is worth anything? I’ve been told by other collectors that it’s not really worth anything, but think they are just trying to rip me off. Please let me know soon, thanks.

    Reply
    • It’s almost certainly a counterstamp or some other post-mint damage.

      Your coin isn’t worthless, but the counterstamp destroys any collector value. Its raw silver value is about 1/3 the price of 1 oz of silver; a metal dealer might pay a wholesale rate of 1/5 or 1/6.

      Bottom line, I doubt anyone is trying to trick you.

      Reply
  14. looking through some nickles I have never noticed a marking below the front part of a nickle below the coat line. It is either 2 letters or 2 numbers. Can anyone tell me what it is and what it means ?

    Reply
    • Hi, Chrissy –

      What you see are the letters “FS,” which are the initials of Felix Schlag, the person who first designed the Jefferson nickel in 1938.

      Reply
    • Your nickel* probably suffered some kind of damage after it was minted. Nickels are made of solid alloy rather than being clad or plated, so spotting usually occurs due to heat, chemicals, or some other type of external agent.

      (*) rather than “nickle”

      Reply
  15. hi – I have roles of coins, mostly pennies that my dad rolled years ago. He even dated the roles so I started looking at the ones from the 1930’s and havent gotten to 1940’s (nor before and after those dates yet!!!) But so far I can’t find any mint mark on any of the 1930’s pennies. Is there are reason?

    Thanks, Jean

    Reply
  16. I Have A 1868 Morgan Silver Dollar that My Father Had Left For Me. It Is Real Silver For Its Not Magnetic, But I Can’t Find A Mint Mark On It. It Is In My Opinion Very Good Condition Being That It Is Almost 130 Years Old. Where Can I Find The Value And A Possible Buyer At The Right Price?

    Reply
    • Hi, Mark –

      Your 1886 Morgan dollar, if lacking a mintmark, was struck at the Philadelphia mint and with moderate wear (based on your judgement of the coin grading “Very Good”) is worth around $20 to $25, which will vary a bit based on silver prices at the time you sell your coin.

      You will definitely want to take your coin to a coin dealer, as they offer better prices on coins than jewelers and pawn shops. Here is some advice on how to find a coin dealer: https://coins.thefuntimesguide.com/coin_dealer/

      Reply
  17. Prices onur 1917 1935 and other date are going to be largely on grade hope to get xf 40 that would be good ecspecially for ur 1917

    Reply
    • The “mint mark” you see is actually an intertwined A W which is the monogram of A. A. Weinman. He was a very famous sculptor, probably second only to St. Gaudens. He designed the Mercury dime as well as the Walking Liberty half.

      One reason for confusion is that many people aren’t aware that up till 1964, most (but not all) US coins had their mint marks on the reverse side while the designer’s monogram usually appeared on the front (obverse) side.

      A good resource for mint mark positions is coinfacts dot com, although it hasn’t been updated in a while.

      Reply
  18. I have 3 Buffalo nickels but I can’t see the year on them but one has a D mint mark how would I be able to know how much they are worth

    Reply
    • Hello, James —

      Assuming your 1880, 1886, and 1896 Morgan dollars and 1922 Peace dollar to be the more common issues, then each Morgan dollar is worth $20 and the Peace dollar has a value of around $18.

      To provide a more specific appraisal, I’d need to please know what the mintmark is under the wreath of the Morgan dollar (located on the reverse or “tails” side).

      Thanks!

      Reply
    • Hello, Olga —

      If they are worn, your 2013 Mount Rushmore quarters are worth face value; if they’re in mint condition, their value is roughly between 50 cents and $1 each.

      Thanks for your question!
      Josh

      Reply
  19. Hello, i have a 1929 wheat penny but i cant find the mint mark anywhere. Can that decrease the amout of the penny. Also how much would you value it at?

    Reply
    • Hi, Ashlyn —

      Great question! While 1929 Philadelphia (no mintmark) pennies are worth less than 1929-D or 1929-S Lincoln cents, the value difference is marginal, especially when talking about worn Lincoln cents. Yours is worth around 15 to 20 cents.

      I hope this helps!
      Joshua @ TheFunTimesGuide

      Reply
  20. I have a 1971 Sm D obv down right by the bottom of the ponytail on my nickel coin. Does anyone know about this coin?

    Reply
    • Hi, Diana —

      Would you please post a photo of your coin? I will look into this more once I can see what’s going on.

      Thanks!
      Josh

      Reply
  21. I noticed that on regular Washington face quarters made after 2000 there are some markings on the very bottom of Washington’s neck. Does anyone know what this says/means?

    Reply
    • Hi, Olilah —

      Those are the initials of designers John Flanagan and William Cousins (the latter person’s initials were added at the start of the 50 States Quarters program)

      Best,
      Josh

      Reply
  22. Hello I have the option to purchase a 1917 one dollar bill. It is said to be uncirculated. Is there any specific way to tell ? It has no creases anywhere and is beautiful. The going price is $245. Thank you

    Reply
    • Hi, Kellie —

      I always advise caution when buying any high-grade, or purportedly high-grade or valuable coins or paper money if they aren’t certified. Is this an online auction? Are there any links you might be able to share? Or, is this a more traditional transaction?

      Best,
      Josh

      Reply
  23. I have a 1971 d Lincoln penny with no designers initials , and I believe it to be an error coin. What are you’re thoughts? Could I have something valuable? Coin is in good condition with only natural tarnishing and one scratch on the back, but nowhere near where the designers mark should be.

    Reply
    • Hello, Danny —

      I would be glad to take a look at a photo and see what might be going on. It’s possible that two things could’ve happened — either your coin was weakly struck or there was overall moderate wear that would have obliterated the VDB initials under Lincoln’s shoulder.

      Best,
      Josh

      Reply
    • Hi, American Veteran —

      First, thank you for the service you provided our nation!

      Second, while I didn’t write this article, I’m sure our editor can make the necessary update to the post.

      Thank you for checking out The Fun Times Guide to Coins!
      -Josh

      Reply
  24. Hi I have a 1991 washington Quarter with the mint mark PJ I cannot find anything about it. I usually collect penny’s but I happen to find this quarter. Can anyone tell me anything about it. The P and J are touching, the bottom of the J curls up just under the loop of the P but can see both clearly

    Reply
    • Hi,

      It sounds like the “P” and “J” were counterstamped after the coin left the mint. While these initials (?) might have an interesting story, the coin would be worth face value.

      I’d still hang onto the coin anyway — these types of coins always make me wonder who once had them and what type of tale they could tell if they could talk!

      Best,
      Josh

      Reply
  25. i have a pretty good little coin collection owning 69 wheat pennies ranging from 1918-1958 three of which of these pennies are steel. 1943 steel wheat penny, 1943 D (steel) wheat penny and 1943 S (steel) wheat penny also apart of my collection is an 1925 buffalo nickel unknown date buffalo nickel (date was rubbed off which i read was common given the place of the date on the coin) 1899 Indian head penny, liberty “V” 1908 nickel and 1935 Liberty dime.

    Reply
    • Hi, Sara!

      It sounds like you have a great coin collection.

      Here’s some more info on what those Lincoln wheat cents might be worth and which ones to keep an especially close eye on: https://coins.thefuntimesguide.com/valuable-pennies/

      The 1899 Indian Head cent is worth around $2 to $3 in average worn condition, the 1908 Liberty nickel has a value of $1 to $2, and the 1935 Winged Liberty Head (or “Mercury” dime) is worth around $3. The 1925 Buffalo nickel is worth about $3 to $5, and the dateless Buffalo nickel has a value of about 50 cents.

      Keep on checking your change!
      Josh

      Reply
  26. I bought at auction a 1853 u.s. quarter with a capital letter J on it. Can’t find out anything about where it came from.

    Reply
    • Hi, Floyd —

      It is likely the “J” is a post-mint counterstamp or etching. Please feel free to submit a photo if you’d like.

      Assuming this is post-mint damage, the value of your piece is likely between 50 and 75 percent of what your coin would be worth in that same grade but in original condition.

      Best,
      Josh

      Reply
    • Hi, Corey —

      It’s possible there is a die chip in the “D” mintmark, or it may be post-mint damage. If it’s the former, the value of your coin would be about $1, whereas if the coin is damaged it’s worth 10 to 15 cents.

      Best,
      Josh

      Reply
  27. Hi Josh i have these 2 1971 Kennedy half dollars , i think the stamp beneath the Eagle is Fg maybe you could have a look…?

    Reply
  28. I have an 1940 nickel and been looking for the mint mark but it doesn’t seem to have one is that good or would it mean it’s fake or what can you tell me about it.

    Reply
    • Hi, David —

      A photo of your coin would be most helpful in this case, but what I can say without seeing it is the mintmark should be just to the right of Monticello on the reverse (tail’s side) of the coin. If there is no mintmark, that means it was made at the Philadelphia Mint, which didn’t place its “P” mintmark on coins in 1940.

      Assuming you have a 1940 Philadelphia nickel in average circulated condition, it’s worth 10 to 20 cents.

      Cool find!
      Josh

      Reply
  29. HI Josh I’m a little confused on the Walking Liberty half dollars from 1914-1947 on where the stamp is placed. You say it would be on the left side under branch. I have a 1942 Walking Liberty coin with a W stamped on right side under eagle on back of coin. Is this a rare coin. Thanks for any input.
    https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/dad662bad9ef93451487f22678ea38f3791274f221baf42f48c7c549def05e64.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/61213c643c88c8453a1aec4ff28e6c61ad3efa9e894173f9e3e898900c14f284.jpg

    Reply
    • Hi, Lindsey!

      Yes, the mintmarks are located under the branch, between the rim and the rock on the reverse of Walking Liberty half dollars struck since 1917; I see no mintmark on the coin pictured in your comment.

      The W is actually an AW monogram representing the initials of the coin’s designer, Adolph A. Weinman.

      Your 1942 Walking Liberty half dollar is a very nice circulated specimen worth about $7.

      Have a great day!
      -Josh

      Reply
  30. How do you tell the difference between a 1970 dime that’s minted in Philadelphia from a “no-S” one that minted in San Fran? Same goes for 1971 “no-S” nickle?

    Reply
    • Hi, Diane –

      There are some strike variations but it would take a keen eye and magnification glass to really tell. The easiest way to distinguish the two is simply looking at the reflectivity of the surface. A Philadelphia business strike coins — the type you will typically find in circulation — have dull surfaces. The no-S proof varieties should have very shiny, mirror-like surfaces.

      If you want to upload an image of the coins you found I’d be glad to double check.

      Thank you for your question!
      Josh

      Reply
    • Hi, Denise —

      Are you asking about the bump on the steps of the Lincoln Memorial? If so, that’s right — it appears abnormal and may be a die chip. If that’s the case, it’s an error that helps improve the coin’s value to possibly $1.

      I hope this info is helpful,
      Josh

      Reply
    • Hi, Denise —

      Are you asking about the bump on the steps of the Lincoln Memorial? If so, that’s right — it appears abnormal and may be a die chip. If that’s the case, it’s an error that helps improve the coin’s value to possibly $1.

      I hope this info is helpful,
      Josh

      Reply
    • Hi, Steph —

      Unfortunately this photo indicates post-Mint edge damage. Assuming this is the case, your 1940 Lincoln wheat penny is worth 2 to 3 cents, but is still a cool find (and one worth keeping) due to its age and the fact these coins are getting harder to find in circulation.

      Neat find!
      -Josh

      Reply
  31. Hi Josh. I have a gold 1984 Olympic Gold Coin that has two runners on the front and an eagle on the back. There is a D under 1984, Is it worth anything? It is still in the plastic case it was given to me in.

    Reply
  32. Hi Josh, I have 2 quarters ( 1965 and 1970) with markings all over planchette mostly visible with magnifier- 5’s, d’s, e’s, eases, etc. It’s like handwritten. Am I seeing things . Thanks for your reply in advance. Bea.

    Reply
    • Hello, Biddie —

      It’s hard to say for certain what you have until I see a photo(s) of the coins in question. If you have any pics, would you mind kindly uploading them here please?

      Thank you,
      Josh

      Reply
    • Hello, Maura —

      I’m not seeing anything in the photos that would seem to make this coin stand out as an error. What aspects of the coin did your husband believe indicates it’s an error?

      Thank you,
      Josh

      Reply
  33. i noticed 1965-1967 is missing “Where To Find The Mint Mark” are they not suppose to have mint marks. i have found some that do.

    Reply
  34. I have a 1953 Nickel that I’ve had for about 25 years…It looked odd so I kept it…It looks as though it is 2 pieces and was stamped wrong…It appears to be coming apart or at least was slightly pulled apart…I would appreciate any info anyone may have….Is this malady common ?….

    Reply
  35. I have a roll of 1968 s Nickels. The mint mark 8 has a shadow at the bottom ends of each bottom of the 8 and the S looks like a B or the S ends are touching. Could this be a repunched coin. The whole roll is the same but differs a little. ?.

    Reply
    • Hi, Richard —

      Without a clear photo of an example it’s hard for me to say if it’s common machine doubling, a repunched mintmark, or something else altogether. I’d be glad to help further if you’d like to post a photo of one of those nickels.

      Best wishes,
      Josh

      Reply
    • Hi, Kandice —

      While this doesn’t seem to have any hub doubling and is therefore not a doubled die as I see here, your call is correct – it’s a 1960-D large date. It appears to have some light circulation wear on the high points, at least in the photos, but it’s nevertheless a nice specimen!

      Thanks for reaching out,
      Josh

      Reply

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