Coins That Are Missing A Clad Layer Are Rare & Valuable Errors Worth Hundreds Of Dollars!

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Have you seen any coins that are missing a clad layer?

They’re very rare and valuable coins that may turn up in your pocket change!

Many folks want to know about these error coins and how they’re made.

Some common questions are:

  • How can you tell if a coin is missing a clad layer?
  • Why do coins lose some or all of their outer clad layer?
  • How much are coins with missing clad layers worth?

Let’s get right to answering those questions!…

What Is A Clad Coin?

To understand the significance of missing clad layer coins, you need to know the basics about clad coinage.

A closeup look at the edges of clad coins. As you can see from their edges, the nickels are not clad coins.

Clad coins are those that are made from a sandwich of metals — usually 3 layers of metal.

Most of the circulating clad coins in the United States today consist of a copper core with an outer layer of metal that’s made from a copper-nickel alloy. This nickel layer forms the front and back (or obverse and reverse) of the clad coin.

Copper-nickel clad coins have been struck in the U.S. since 1965. It is generally cheaper to produce than the 90% silver coins that these clad coins replaced.

How Can You Tell If A Coin Is Missing A Clad Layer?

1980 dime with obverse missing clad layer

A missing clad layer is a pretty obvious error that you can see with the naked eye.

When a copper-nickel clad coin is missing some or all of its outer (nickel) layer, the coin appears copper colored where the clad is missing.

  • It may appear to be a brassy orange color or a dark brown brown color — or somewhere in between. It all depends on the degree to which the copper has begun assuming a natural patina (a thin layer of tarnish that naturally forms on the surface of copper over time).
  • When only part of the clad layer is missing, you might see a strip of silvery colored outer layer and an area that is brownish in color.
  • If part of the clad layer is missing and the core is exposed, you should also see a small “step” between the exposed core and the partial outer clad layer left behind.
  • If all of the clad layer from one side is missing, the coin will look thinner than normal.

Missing clad layers is a particularly rare error — one scarcer than most others. (Especially these days with tighter quality control at the US Mint.)

A List Of U.S. Coins That Could Be Missing A Clad Layer

U.S. coin denominations from the dime on up through the dollar coin have been made with various types of clad compositions since 1965.

The United States Mint has made coins with various types of clad compositions, including:

  • Copper-nickel clad coins — The most common type, used for making dimes, quarters, half dollars, and dollar coins.
  • Silver-copper clad coins — Used for striking Kennedy half dollars from 1965 through 1970 and Eisenhower dollars from 1971 through 1976. (The silver clad composition was also used for making select 1776-1976 Bicentennial quarters, half dollars, and dollar coins.)
  • “Golden” dollars — Since 2000, the United States Mint has struck so-called golden dollars. They consist of a clad composition — with outer layers made from zinc, manganese, and nickel bonded to a pure copper core.

These are some of the different kinds of coins that have been struck with a clad composition:

  • Roosevelt dimes
  • Washington quarters
  • 50 States series quarters
  • America The Beautiful series quarters
  • Kennedy half dollars
  • Commemorative half dollars
  • Eisenhower dollars
  • Susan B. Anthony dollars
  • Golden dollars (including the Sacagawea, Presidential, and Native American dollars)
missing clad layer coins

If you look at the sides of any of these coins, you should see the copper band around the edge. That copper band is the core to which the outer clad layers are bonded.

Why Are Some Coins Missing Clad Layers?

There are a handful of ways that a coin might lose its outer layer of metal.

Here are the 2 most common ways that a missing clad error coin is made:

#1 – Chemical impurities in the bonding process

Clad coins are created from bonding different metals together to form multi-layered metallic sandwiches.

When impurities get in the way during the bonding process, these impurities can cause the nickel clad layers to split off from the copper core — exposing the copper inside the sandwich. The clad layer may come off the entire coin, or it might flake off in segments. This can occur before, during, or after striking of the coin.

#2 – Manufacturing errors

Another way these missing clad errors are created involves a different type of manufacturing error…

Sometimes, error coins that are missing their outer layer of nickel clad happen when the outer strip of metal isn’t wide enough to overlap the copper core layer — which results in only part of the coin being cladded with its outer layer.

Collecting Coins With Missing Clad Errors

Collecting clad coins with a missing clad layer is very popular — especially for the 50 State Quarters series.

Many collectors are even trying to build entire sets of 50 of the state quarters with one example of a quarter from each state missing its clad layer!

Such collections are very challenging to build and quite expensive, too. For example, the 2000 Maryland quarter missing its nickel clad layer is worth as much as $1,000!

How Much Is A Coin With Missing Clad Layer Worth?

Values for these cool error coins vary, depending on the individual coin.

What matters most is:

  • How much of the clad layer is absent
  • Which side of the coin is the affected side

Coins that are missing clad layers exhibit this defect to varying degrees and are classified by how much of the outer clad layer is missing and which side of the coin it is missing on. For example:

  • A coin that is missing half of its clad layer on its reverse (tails) side is described as “50% missing reverse clad.”
  • A coins that is missing the entire face of the outer layer on its obverse (heads) side is described as “100% missing obverse clad” or simply “obverse missing clad.”

Believe it or not, partial errors (such as 50% or 75% missing clad layer coins) are actually scarcer than errors on which the entire face of nickel clad is missing. But usually, these are worth less because collectors generally show preference to errors in which an entire face is absent its outer clad layer.

No matter how much or little of the clad layer is missing or where on the coin it is absent from, all missing clad layer error coins are very scarce and highly collectible.

Values are almost always $75 to $100 or more for missing clad layer coins. In fact, many of the 50 States Quarters that are missing the clad layer on the reverse (or “state side”) sell for $200 and up!

Missing Clad Layer Errors vs. Split Planchet Errors vs. Lamination Errors

Error coins with a missing clad layer aren’t numismatically categorized with split planchet errors — which are similar in nature but different.

Split planchet errors occur on solid metal coins (such as alloyed coins like bronze pennies or copper-nickel five-cent coins) and occur due to impurities in those planchets.

Split planchet errors are also similar to lamination errors — which occur when parts of the coin flake off, due to impurities or other abnormalities in the planchet.

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215 thoughts on “Coins That Are Missing A Clad Layer Are Rare & Valuable Errors Worth Hundreds Of Dollars!”

  1. https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/d3630d2123cbf636d50cad5372a53f30c2f320a78c5e597c67928e7cd1dede4e.jpg OMG…there’s so much to learn about coin collecting! I’ve been staring at coins for 2 weeks now, hoping that by the time I come across an error coin it will just jump out at me! I came across this dime, but I can’t tell if it’s a 1994 or a 1944. I was wondering if you could tell me why it looks dark-like a penny almost? It’s the same on both sides…

    Reply
    • Hi, Crackerjack9,

      I’m glad you’re having fun! Buckle up, because what you think you’ve learned in two weeks will even pale in comparison to what you learn in two years or two decades in this hobby! It’s truly a lifetime endeavor and one in which you will always learn something new every day, if you wish! I’m excited for you and am glad you’re enjoying the journey.

      As for these dimes, the image is a little grainy to tell the date on the top right or bottom one, but both of two coins exhibit what we’d call post-mint damage, or PMD. The top right coin has multiple surface marks and/or porosity and is worth face value. The bottom one is dark due to discoloration from environmental damage.

      The 1967 dime in the top right has appears to have been weakly struck, as noted in the mushiness of the some letters in the motto IN GOD WE TRUST. If I could zoom in closer I could tell you more about this and even look for signs of this being a doubled die. Would you please resubmit clear closeups of each of these three dimes so I can help with date identification and also look at the 1967 closer?

      Thank you!
      Josh

      Reply
    • Hi, Lefty!

      Looks like your 2002 Roosevelt dime has seen a hard life, and its overall unusual appearance is caused by environmental damage, or discoloration caused by chemicals, fumes, moisture, of exposure to other elements. This piece is worth face value but has a story to tell!

      Best wishes,
      Josh

      Reply
  2. Hey! came across your forum while trying to find information about an odd quarter I found. First noticed it when it wouldn’t fit into the meter I was trying to pay. It is too thick, there is copper it looks like just around the egdes. https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/f3bac1f817502b5e296238ab6a2068519f34b64d3d19f990b116b1bc38193917.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/7b99ecb11a6f141a894b94984e21c68da1598aa5668aff657594302d98517a0f.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/198b717d7a29baa602adc18dfd0f65577bb9413d11a5d6e30cef8801bd0b8658.jpg

    Reply
    • Hi, Lauren —

      This is what many folks call a “dryer coin,” or one whose edge has been flattened likely through a process of centrifugal force as in spinning around inside a clothes dryer. There are other post-Mint ways the achieve this affect through belt sanding, a process of metal manipulation known as spooning, and other alteration methods, too. But unfortunately it’s not a Mint error, though it it is a neat find!

      Best wishes,
      Josh

      Reply
    • Hi, Chad —

      While there are no mintmarks on any 1965 US coins to identify them as “P” or “D,” your piece appears to be a darkly toned but otherwise normal dime with cladding intact.

      Best wishes,
      Josh

      Reply
    • Hi, Ocgurly —

      It looks like your dime was dipped in or exposed to a particularly caustic acid. The surface is quite porous and pitted. Therefore, while the top nickel-based cladding appears to be missing, it’s unfortunately not due to a cladding error but rather post-Mint alteration. This piece is worth face value.

      Interesting find though!
      Josh

      Reply
    • Hi, Dreamwalker —

      The photos are blurry but from what I see these are heavily worn Roosevelt dimes. If they’re from the copper-nickel clad period (1965-date; weighing around 2.20-2.30 grams) they’re worth face value.

      Best wishes,
      Josh

      Reply
  3. I saw this post and had to join. I have a 2014 https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/c1988124e261143fbdfb9f73c30074c67d59a8eefb77cf38fc6e2e8973cde468.jpg dime that might be missing the clad layer. I’m attaching pictures of both sides next to a dime with no layer missing, along with an edge view, for your reference. What do you think?

    https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/5e2f199b58757fb64b5aa5514cb0ff7df64ed0f9b13cba1b0cd31cfd08120ec1.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/ee4f29c153453f963af32633348b3962b76b021231f51c8548970a920b7832f2.jpg

    Reply
    • Hi, Impu —

      The dime you’re referring to isn’t missing a layer but rather has some colorful toning most likely due to how or where the coin was stored. If it has any circulation wear, it is worth face value.

      Thank you for reaching out,
      Josh

      Reply
  4. Hi Josh,
    I have a few questions about Kennedy half, but i couldn’t find an article about these.

    First I have three halves 1967-1968, their colors appear to be different and it looks like not copper layer on them (pics 1-2 top row, second row 1974 for comparison), and pic 3 showing rims.

    I also have a 1974 Kenny half that also the color appears to be different from the other 1974 and the face looks reddish (pics 4-5-6)

    My other question is also about 1974. Is it normal that in some 1974 half the face be on the copper but in others the face is in the nickel layer https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/f51b6e4e7a25ca0d5d2edb53dc58fab1eb7be8b572252b78b4eb467c688f5a11.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/25e41c08cbaaf0a72b3bd6531314f720fe018741c34023d5e279317c5d5ebb00.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/1063886190e04e7fb1082a175d041bdd08e06413fbf2214fe74b84ee8e30ccf2.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/392f9468624fb7e1615985609ea154c5b489f06f815f9c45739d1b7c9e743a7f.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/99f69c3bbf12a298bb14ce2ab3f0dfe1b291135786fd4ead0653f7b8bbe113ed.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/6ec251b4b5b2d676261a7917909d5ac60dd95bb08adf8a8fb909d26e7506cd60.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/217f7bfa0f63419e430964c3fc8205201fbe1d47692435c02c7b91cbf039cffc.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/c01bb75a9bdf2e0f37417bea0c09f742515f80a1862c031fcbf17d0f5e2d4dc4.jpg

    Reply
    • Hi, Richard —

      Thank you for reaching out! The coloration issues you mentioned here have to do mainly with environmental issues — the exposure of each piece to various elements over the years. The coppery look on the high points of the 1974 half is due to the coin’s contact with something caustic or acidic. Only the high points are affected so the coin was in direct contact with something that was rather rigid — not pliable and able to have bent into the coin’s lower surfaces, such as the fields (the flat areas without the design elements).

      Overall, your pieces appear rather consistent with the appearance of many circulated half dollars of their age. As you may know the pre-1971 halves contain silver, with the pieces struck from 1965-70 carrying a 40% silver composition. Those are presently worth around $3 to $4 or so apiece. The ones shown here struck from 1971 on are safe to spend if you wish.

      Stay healthy,
      Josh

      Reply
    • Nice, Curtis —

      While they’re rather tough to find an ordinary pocket change uncirculated pennies from decades ago often get turned out into circulation fresh from a bank roll or collection that was parceled out. A typical uncirculated 1969-D Lincoln cent is worth about 10-20 cents.

      Best wishes,
      Josh

      Reply
    • Hi Donna,

      Actually it is a form of toning from being exposed to chemicals/agents — possibly environmental (sulfur, chlorine, gas fumes, etc.) — or extreme heat. I’m not sure where this coin has been stored, but it seems it reacted to something. It’s worth a dime, but it’s important to note that some collectors do pay premiums for natural toning on mint-condition coins.

      Best wishes,
      Josh

      Reply
  5. Can you provide any feedback on this 1978 quarter? It has the “step” you refer to in your clad explanation where the inner core is exposed in very small area, but is more yellowish than orange in color.

    Reply
    • Hi, Kim —

      I’m afraid I don’t see any photos here for reference… Would you please try posting them again?

      Thank you,
      Josh

      Reply
      • Hi Josh,

        It won’t let me upload the photos. Is there an alternate way to get them to you to view? I looked at this much closer last night and it is a very odd coin.

        Thanks for your response.
        Kim

        Reply
        • Hi, Kim —

          Images uploaded here should be either JPG or PNG format and 2mb or less in size and can be attached by clicking on the little rectangular photo attach button near the message field.

          Hope this helps!
          Josh

          Reply
    • Hi, Seymour!

      I hope you and yours had a great Labor Day! Unfortunately this isn’t a missing clad coin but rather a situation where the coin was discolored due to environmental damage. It’s common where a coin like this sits on a surface for some months or years, exposed to caustic agents (sulfur fumes, for example) that end up corroding away one surface of the coin. Look closely, and you can see the porosity on the surface here. While worth face value, I totally see why this one caught your attention.

      Best wishes,
      Josh

      Reply
    • Hi, Viridium —

      This coin may need closer evaluation from the error experts at CONECA (www.varietyvista.com), because I can’t tell in this photo of the coin has erratic discoloration, or is rather missing a clad layer due to an error or post-mint chemical removal.

      Fingers crossed you can get an answer,
      Josh

      Reply
    • Hi, Brittain —

      Yes, what you have is a coin that appears to have been sanded or otherwise heavily — maybe intentionally — abraded (aggressively worn) after it left the mint. While worth face value, this coin could tell quite a story of it could talk!

      Best wishes,
      Josh

      Reply
  6. Hey question for you. I was going through my oldies but goodies and saw this. Do you think this is probably post mint damage ? Thats what I thought but then I weighed it and it’s only 2.5gs . https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/ac5624a181a10bfc02631d304ff04a38c6bf39fdc72e81c38cf22e79969af09c.jpg https s://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/ac5624a181a10bfc02631d304ff04a38c6bf39fdc72e81c38cf22e79969af09c.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/a281e22ccc8c45d915dbdebaaa3da80bd7e4671b2dffec822a4d595b0001c39c.jpg

    Reply
    • Hi, Keaton —

      Yes, unfortunately it is only post-Mint damage; the lower weight is caused by missing metal from the corrosion and other pieces of missing metal evident here. It looks like someone may have once tried passing this off as a dime either to fit into a vending machine or perhaps a roll of dimes.

      Best wishes,
      Josh

      Reply
  7. Hi! I have a 2006 P North Dakota Quarter that I think was struck on a nickel planchet. First, I thought it was a broadstrike since it has no ridges, but the coin is a just a tiny, tiny bit smaller than a regular quarter. The edges are moistly copper, appears to be about 75%, and super smooth. Obverse shows flattened buffalo. Can you please give me your thoughts on this one? Will upload photos but it’s not working at the moment. Thank you!

    Reply
    • Hi, Janet —

      Sure, once I see photos of the coin and can determine what is going on with it I’d be glad to offer my opinion.

      Thanks!
      Josh

      Reply
      • Thank you, but it won’t allow me to load images on this platform for some strange reason. I’m signed in and trying to load Jpg’s and I’ve tried various sizes. Any ideas?

        Reply
        • Hi, Janet —

          Usually JPG images of less than 2mb should upload via the little rectangle near the edge of the comment box.

          Hope this helps!
          Josh

          Reply
      • Thank you, but it won’t allow me to load images on this platform for some strange reason. I’m signed in and trying to load Jpg’s and I’ve tried various sizes. Any ideas?

        Reply
    • Hi Gagilmer —

      It looks like someone planed off the back half of the coin, but for what reason eludes me. What an interesting find though!

      Best wishes,
      Josh

      Reply
    • Hi Janet —

      It looks like somebody planed/sanded this coin and its edges, which also explains the broad and unusual wear patterns on the faces. While it’s worth face value, I see why this coin caught your eye!

      Best,
      Josh

      Reply
    • Hi, Jackson —

      While I see why this caught your eye, the discoloration and possible flaking of metal appears in the photos to have been caused by post-mint environmental damage.

      Best wishes,
      Josh

      Reply
  8. I have a 1965 dime that appears copper colored and is very thin and light weight. It appears to be the “middle” if a regular dime. The surface feels rough and there is no definitive edge like on a regular coin. Is this a “missing clad” coin?

    Reply
  9. Hi Josh! I have this dime in my collection and was looking for some quick thoughts on whether or not it may be missing its clad layers. The coin itself does not vary in weight from other dimes of it’s year nor does it seem to be thinner, yet there is no visual indication of layers within the edge and both sides of the coin are completely brown. As far as I’m aware this dime has been tucked away in a sealed jar with other dimes (all seemingly normal) for the last couple of years, but the possibility of environmental impact being the culprit is obviously still very likely as I am unsure of the coin’s history beyond that.
    A second opinion would be greatly appreciated 🙂

    I’ve included some photos of the coin along with photos of a normal dime for reference https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/7a4f2de61a16045d4f755ed19a9e9d66dc8e98817e97d0d78c59034eb5d2ba0a.jpg
    https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/e93027598ee679b1c484966d895ffcd494dd0d9b6bfd516b385714a84564f97b.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/8ef04506c13123963c4a263ffedf349a26f87c10aa44fa22b2d39eac6210730c.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/99705e4d1a499c53cf30b736265f05ff64bb9107fddc44b5d50219f2e6c751b1.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/464136da8605cc4bf8a68432a03b7facb934b452af61f278d03c3d74493fe97a.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/175305c51b2a484641eb821e63280de46a6ec714b437a5b0c552abd750da0da0.jpg

    Kelsey

    Reply
  10. Hello Josh, hoping you can give me an insightful opinion here. In the picture I have a 1997 D Washington quarter sitting in contrast to a 1776-1976 Bicentennial for color comparison. The 1997 stands out to me remarkably by its color gradient. It appears to have a “rose-gold” sheen to it rather than the other clad errors I’ve seen. It’s not brown, rusty, nor does it seem like environmental degradation. What do you think?

    Reply
    • Hi, Boobalouie —

      The site should permit you to upload JPG and PNG images up to 2mb in size by clicking on the rectangular photo upload icon near the comment box.

      I look forward to assisting with your question further once I can see your quarter and can offer an educated opinion!

      Best wishes,
      Josh

      Reply
  11. Hi Bob!

    I have a collection of coins I started about 15 years ago and only collected for a short time. I recently decided to venture out and look in my time capsule. I have some pieces that are no mint and state quarters, etc, but this one quarter I can not find. any advice would be greatly appreciated. it is stamped “PG”

    Reply
    • Hi, Rebecca!

      The “PG” is a post-mint counter-stamp and may add very nominal value to your coin in the eyes of those who collect such pieces as novelty collectibles.

      Best,
      Josh

      Reply
      • Thanks Josh!
        My next question here is >>>bare with me im new at this and trying to learn as much as i can with resources that are available reight now but are these quarters worth taking a look at or are they just wear and tear,,(mind you i tried picking out the most unique ones.

        Reply
  12. https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/59c1d34cbc48e979eed08d4af8386efb25723d30cebef01e9749c51c7acefa69.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/a175907bb5d554cff80b81d25f82e4309178bb8fa525ba22b5798dcb82e3784a.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/b2a0fcf94638f9d398e3b9b0aef7445c541cb7eb76efc7077cf88f5d909aa79d.jpg Hello. I recently found a 1984 and a 1987 quarter in my pocket that was obviously different. The 1984 is also starting to lose the reverse side clad and you can see the split forming. How do I find the value for this coin?

    Reply
    • Hi, Briant —

      It’s a little tough to see the edge of the quarter in the first picture but it appears to have a post-Mint alteration in which some of the metal had been channeled out.

      The other quarter appears to have damage from exposure to intense heat; it may have been in a fire.

      Both of these quarters are safe to spend if you wish to…

      Thank you for reaching out,
      Josh

      Reply
      • Do quarters separate under I tense heat? I really thought I had something. I just started researching coins last week but I have a few that I know are valuable. The pics are of the same coin. The area you see as chiseled is just a discoloration. I appreciate your feedback and I will post my other quarters for more info thank you.

        Reply
        • Hi, Briant —

          Quarters (as well as dimes) made since 1965 are made from a copper-nickel clad composition, and these layers will bubble and/or split under intense heat. Exposure to extreme heat also causes dark, mottled discoloration.

          Hope this helps a little,
          Josh

          Reply
          • Yes it does. I just started researching coins and errors and I knew it was too good to be true. I realize I have alot to learn. If you were just start g out hunting rolls what would your go to coin denomination be and why? I greatly appreciate any advice you might jave for me. Thank you.

          • Hi, Briant,

            I’ve actively involved been in the hobby since 1992, and I learn something new every day!!!! That’s one of the fun things about collecting coins — there’s always something new to discover, whether it be a type of coin from some obscure time and place or a piece of knowledge about the coins that pass through our hands everyday.

            From my personal experience, I’d suggest starting off with rolls of pennies and nickels — they’re relatively inexpensive to buy as rolls and offer a larger quantity of coins per roll that increases your odds of finding things that are worthwhile. If you’ve got a little more time, money, and patience, you might try searching rolls of dimes, quarters, and half dollars in the pursuit of silver or the one-off varieties and errors that may crop up.

            Here’s a link where you’ll find lists of coins worth more than face value for each circulating denomination in the US: https://coins.thefuntimesguide.com/us-coins/

            Good luck!
            Josh

  13. Hi I am mjke lawson I have a 2008 Hawaii state quarter and all of it clad is gone I also have a 1967 dime that has error on the back of it and haven’t seen any like mine any were can you help me out what they r weather and where to state to sell them thank you so much

    Reply
    • Hi, Mike —

      Would you please post clear photos of these coins so I can get a better look at what’s going on with them?

      Thank you,
      Josh

      Reply
    • Hi, Wardaddy —

      This quarter has evidence of environmental damage seen not just through heavy (brownish) surface discoloration but also its light porosity. The coin’s clad plating does appear within a light surface scrape across part of Washington’s face. This coin is worth face value and is safe to spend.

      Thanks for reaching out!
      Josh

      Reply
    • Hi, Devon —

      This one is an interesting find. However, nickels — while containing copper — aren’t made from layers of cladding (like dimes and quarters), but rather contain a blended alloy. It appears to be post-mint discoloration from environmental damage…

      Thanks for reaching out,
      Josh

      Reply
  14. Hello Although. I’ve always looked at coins & saved the ones that looked weird. I am going to get into it a bit closer now . Anyway I recently found this dime in amongst the stuff . Looks to me like the clad is missing I just ordered a digital microscope so hopefully I will be able to document better in the near future. Thanks for your time. https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/5620c0c883b91742aafe6e7f6288dab10a07f1b4ab459ff640a1dabc97d85392.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/78da15e4213f0e115cb4c67d2b1a9b55279910641666a25d32dc91eeeb407751.jpg

    Reply
    • Hi, theslowride —

      Your 2000-D Roosevelt dime is dark due to environmental damage — the discoloration is similar to what is usually seen on coins exposed to intense heat.

      At any rate, this piece is worth its face value and is safe to spend if you wish.

      Best,
      Josh

      Reply
  15. So I found this many years ago before I had a Cell Phone or a Computer. 25+ years. Took it to a local Coin /Jewelry shop & he said it was junk. So I bought the plastic case from him. @ one point when I 1st looked it up it was still a unknown, Now I think its a well established CUD . (I got the rotation right this time)
    https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/e166290805bd5e52fdb3ab2a6cf7c9b2676419ec49cb1f7c37cedf13b26a90d0.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/22d175341e83c8dcaa2144178ec79ea9ab926dc11914ea5a3d97fc7507157d03.jpg

    Reply
  16. https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/5a506c64d79571c44d73e4579a97e8d6c228a1ec211f6881ed6c875f8a857e31.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/7dbfcec5848185d1f1568b8997fe82c96aed29a6aba247be02267f598842b843.jpg

    This one is hard for me to tell if it’s some post mint damage or the real deal, partial missing clad layer. Rotating it in the light, the coin still exhibits the cart wheels all the way around seen on an undamaged coin. Seems like every other coin i’ve seen like this doesn’t do that which is why I must ask, what do you think?

    Reply
    • Hi, Rhonda —

      The coppery-colored quarter appears to have some environmental discoloration and is safe to spend.

      Thanks for reaching out!
      Josh

      Reply
  17. I’m not sure if my 1991 penny is truly missing the clad layer. My father in law left his coins to me and I found a penny that doesn’t have any copper layer to it obverse or reverse. I can scratch the coin and see some copper coloring. It doesn’t have any Jez or nasty spots like ones I’ve looked up that were done by people in acid or other things. How can I tell if this is worth anything?

    Reply
  18. Thank you so much for the very informative article. I have a question though. In the article you said that coins missing their clad layer aren’t numismatically categorized, so are those coins graded?

    Reply
    • Hi, Mountain Girl —

      The quote here is missing its context, which in its entirety is “Error coins with a missing clad layer aren’t numismatically categorized with split planchet errors — which are similar in nature but different.” All I am essentially saying is they aren’t considered split planchet errors, which occur with solid alloy coins — not clad coins, composed of layers of different metal.

      Indeed, clad coins missing a clad layer are absolutely of value and worth grading!

      Thank you for reaching out and I hope this explanation is helpful!

      Best,
      Josh

      Reply
    • Hi, Levi —

      I don’t seem to see any photos of the coins you are asking about. Please feel free to post a few photos of two or three coins for me to check out.

      Thanks!
      Josh

      Reply
    • Hi, DC —

      I’m afraid both coins are exhibiting discoloration caused by environmental damage. Both are worth face value.

      Best wishes,
      Josh

      Reply
    • Hi, Ginny —

      I’m afraid what you have here is a quarter discolored through environmental damage. This piece is worth its face value.

      Best wishes,
      Josh

      Reply
    • Hi, Alfonso —

      Unfortunately this isn’t a clad error but rather heavy discoloration and surface corrosion caused by environmental damage. This coin is worth its face value and is safe to spend if you wish.

      Thanks for reaching out,
      Josh

      Reply
    • Hi, Sylvia —

      The greenish hues on this quarter were caused by discoloration, most likely from environmental damage. Assuming this quarter was made AFTER 1964 (the last year silver quarters were made for circulation), it’s safe to spend at face value if you wish.

      Thank you for reaching out,
      Josh

      Reply
    • Hi, Rick —

      The 1978-D quarter is discolored. Meanwhile, the 1991-P (? — can’t ascertain as the coin is very grainy here) has both discoloration and other forms of heavy post-mint damage, including porosity and evidence of the edge having been machined flat or spun in a clothes dryer (yes, the rims can really go flat if the coin is spun at high speeds in a dryer — this is very common).

      Overall, neither coin exhibits signs of mint errors and both are worth their face value.

      Best wishes,
      Josh

      Reply
    • Hi, Marquis —

      It appears your Idaho quarter is discolored due to environmental damage. It’s worth its face value and is safe to spend if you wish.

      Best wishes,
      Josh

      Reply
    • Hi, Matthew —

      This coin appears to have some discoloration either due to environmental damage or possible attempts to artificially tone the coin.

      Best wishes,
      Josh

      Reply
    • Hi, Cheryl —

      This photo is a little too fuzzy for me to get a good look at if that “hook” is raised or sunken. I can tell you that it appears to be a post-mint alteration and not an error, but what I can’t determine from this photo is if it’s a scratch or mar into the surface or a counter stamp — something struck onto the coin by someone else.

      Best,
      Josh

      Reply
  19. Hi there! Was counting my tips and came across this quarter which happened to be made on my birth year. Figured I’d inquire about it because I’ve never seen one like this before. Appreciate greatly if you could take a look at it and any info you could tell me. Thanks in advance! https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/bfc8501c8c8c6a32f7d6dbfda53b175895b24887c328b8b1337272e9e6b1c1d5.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/0dffec63d19c7128ce8e247d96ac2438a41ea9c4c1e7e2b536324c346edfe1da.jpg

    Reply
    • Hi, Jennifer —

      I’m afraid that little notch on your 1972 quarter is damage that occurred to the coin after it left the mint. This piece is worth its face value and is safe to spend if you wish.

      Thank you for reaching out!
      Josh

      Reply
    • Hi, David Tiffany —

      From what I see here this piece has some discoloration and a stain, both of which are forms of post-mint damage. Assuming there are no errors on the other side and based on what I see with this one side of the coin anyway, it’s worth face value and is safe to spend if you wish.

      Best,
      Josh

      Reply
    • Hi, Daisha —

      Your 1995-P dime shows discoloration due to environmental damage and is worth face value.

      Thank you for reaching out,
      Josh

      Reply
  20. I can’t seem to find the info I’m looking for On this particular quarter it isn’t in the best of shape I’m not sure what has happened to it? However it is thinner, noticeably thinner. It is a reddish coppery color which seems to be consistent on the reverse and obverse, I see no hint of silver anywhere on this coin sides included. It’s 2003 P Al https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/67920cef3b88ea8dd3051399e67aa3893ce892a7340388538bc440198dcf2f47.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/d4e534fac9b043d9992242d1fc2dfd5d7a59c745e876fa9de724a7484b424a0b.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/75f1bbaaf57a9cba7bf00ef98bd2c6353bad41d87eec9bbc98edc9db58c06a63.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/627db1dbea4f6f048b8d3064929cd7027382dbf5b5f5cc94b99bdb600fef2437.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/435a8648e9c5f9449e6ddb00d803d9a06fe876f7d10f0746b554f6bdfc4e5e3e.jpg abama state quarter and I will include a couple of pictures and any comments or advice is welcome thank you

    Reply
    • Hi, Kristy and John —

      Your quarter exhibits discoloration by way of environmental damage. It appears there may also be some degree of light surface porosity. This piece is safe to spend for its face value if you wish.

      Thank you for reaching out,
      Josh

      Reply
    • Hi, Anthony —

      Some of these quarters are heavily worn and others are discolored. All are safe to spend at their face value if you wish…

      Best,
      Josh

      Reply
  21. Hi Josh,
    First time finding one of these. Appears to be missing a clad layer and looks very much like full copper on the outside. Do you think this is the real deal?

    Reply
    • Hello, Terah!

      I appreciate your kind compliment and your stopping by the site. As for your coin, it appears that on the image of the edge of your coin, there is a nickel outer layer present. Furthermore, the slightly dappled coloration on the coin appears more consistent with surface discoloration due to environmental damage than a missing clad layer.

      While an in-hand evaluation is always more conclusive than one done by photo, I’m pretty confident this is not an error but rather post-mint damage.

      Thank you for reaching out,
      Josh

      Reply
  22. I have a 1986d Jefferson nickel that is missing all of the coating on one side and around rim and some on the reverse side? I can’t seem to find anything regarding this error? I’ll send pics if needed.

    Reply
    • Hi,

      Yes, please post clear photos of your 1986-D Jefferson nickel here in the comments forum so I can try helping further.

      Thank you,
      Josh

      Reply
  23. So I found this quarter that I thought was a game piece. Looks like some the clad error ones but it’s both sides not just one. I’llput up a picture n would love some feed back. Also I have a Kennedy coin that is much smaller and half of the letters all cut off by the rim….. if you could point me in right direction for that too I’d appreciate it. Thanks in advance. https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/bc6d376e7ca58fcf8840674fff4e4897b97f233730c0a80cdfbc87a24762d1f4.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/59225b55fbcc39b40cfaed281f484d59b806c6eb5653bc1f8b13965619350b7b.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/6bbd0780c056ee24f09087b424f5c7b88d52e953f2f9049dafea8d753bedb448.jpg

    Reply
    • Hi, Chatelle —

      Coloration and toning/patination are always a difficult thing to tell by photos alone (lighting, etc.). Acute discoloration or toning like that region on the reverse could be caused by anything from exposure to cigarette smoke to being held in a sweaty hand on a hot day, with the environment around the coin at that time and thereafter further influencing the shade and intensity of color.

      Thank you for reaching out,
      Josh

      Reply
    • Thanks for the help Josh. I just never saw a penny with that bright orange/red color before. Even though the coloring was environmental it’s still really neat

      Reply
  24. What affects would a coin (penny) have if it gets stamped without a clad layer? I have a 1983 d penny that looks like it’s missing the clad layers and when stamped looks like to much pressure because it’s oversized but the obverse and reverse of the penny looks as it should without the protective layer.

    Reply
    • Hi, Ricardo —

      This very much resembles in size, color, and design a replica penny I have. Without examining the coin in-hand, I believe this is what you have here.

      Best,
      Josh

      Reply
        • That tracks… That, along with the size, color, and design on your coin leads me to believe this is what you have, based on photos and not an in-hand evaluation.

          Reply
  25. I have a bicentennial quarter that I think is missing both clad sides. It’s copper colored and thin. Can anyone tell me more? It weighs 3.5 grams….pics in comments

    Reply
  26. I have what appears to be a dual non-clad 1980 D Washington quarter. It has a few oddities about it …filled P, double strike but I’ve never seen an actual dual non-clad and am unable to find any information on anything close so what do I do with it? How rare is it if it’s legit? Took photos next to remote to show unedited color. Added a photo with a ‘regular quarter’ for comparison. Thoughts welcome and thank you!

    https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/711b67b75ec8cad5ec478d7aa9f48156ee9b1ef4b3a5f8f862b070765624a634.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/998af02f88c5861484b0e9eb578f97603a147717ff28aabd6fd248a57f0d3060.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/38165ca2ac576cdde5ebeea4b40aa215a546237f22c047a1f6c36045eb395cda.jpg

    Reply
    • Hi, Tammy —

      As for the 1980-P quarter, I’m not seeing any doubling of the date on my end, at least with the resolution of the image. However, the appearance of a filled “P” is most likely due to wear. I also see softening of the word “IN” of “IN GOD WE TRUST,” which is a signature of either a weak strike or wear.

      The discoloration of the coin is due to environmental damage/elements as you point out. Generally speaking, there’s not much that can be done to change the color of the coin without potentially damaging its surface. There are silver dips on the market, and these may help lighten the color of the coin a bit. An abrasive like toothpaste or baking soda could also brighten the color, but this will also leave irreparable hairline striations all over the coin and give it a false sheen — false in that it will look unnaturally bright for a coin with the degree of wear it has.

      Best wishes,
      Josh

      Reply
  27. Hi Joshua, I have, what appears to be, a 1996-P nickel with 2 types of metal. I tried to take pics. with my phone, both normal and X2, I put a 1995, 1996, and a 1997 coin next to and above it, to compare to. Is it possible to have 2 different metals struck on the same coin and is it rare? What do you think it would be worth?
    Thank you
    Dan

    Reply
    • Hi, Dan —

      Jefferson nickels technically are made of two types of metal — an alloy of 25% copper and 75% copper. But I see what you’re talking about with the 1996-P, and it appears to be discolored.

      That dusty color is a fairly common patination pattern on nickels, and while it looks distinct from the others it in itself is consistent with the way nickels will sometimes tone. Any number of factors can cause this, in large part due to the coin’s high percentage of copper — a metal that’s highly reactive to various environmental influences.

      Based on what I see in the photos the coin appears “normal” on the basis of environmental discoloration and is worth its face value.

      I hope this info helps,
      Josh

      Reply

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