Coins That Are Missing A Clad Layer Are Rare & Valuable Errors Worth Hundreds Of Dollars!

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Have you seen any coins that are missing a clad layer?

They’re very rare and valuable coins that may turn up in your pocket change!

Many folks want to know about these error coins and how they’re made.

Some common questions are:

  • How can you tell if a coin is missing a clad layer?
  • Why do coins lose some or all of their outer clad layer?
  • How much are coins with missing clad layers worth?

Let’s get right to answering those questions!…


What Is A Clad Coin?

To understand the significance of missing clad layer coins, you need to know the basics about clad coinage.

Clad coins are those that are made from a sandwich of metals — usually 3 layers of metal.

Most of the circulating clad coins in the United States today consist of a copper core with an outer layer of metal that’s made from a copper-nickel alloy. This nickel layer forms the front and back (or obverse and reverse) of the clad coin.

Copper-nickel clad coins have been struck in the U.S. since 1965. It is generally cheaper to produce than the 90% silver coins that these clad coins replaced.


How Can You Tell If A Coin Is Missing A Clad Layer?

A missing clad layer is a pretty obvious error that you can see with the naked eye.

When a copper-nickel clad coin is missing some or all of its outer (nickel) layer, the coin appears copper colored where the clad is missing.

  • It may appear to be a brassy orange color or a dark brown brown color — or somewhere in between. It all depends on the degree to which the copper has begun assuming a natural patina (a thin layer of tarnish that naturally forms on the surface of copper over time).
  • When only part of the clad layer is missing, you might see a strip of silvery colored outer layer and an area that is brownish in color.
  • If part of the clad layer is missing and the core is exposed, you should also see a small “step” between the exposed core and the partial outer clad layer left behind.
  • If all of the clad layer from one side is missing, the coin will look thinner than normal.

Missing clad layers is a particularly rare error — one scarcer than most others. (Especially these days with tighter quality control at the US Mint.)


A List Of U.S. Coins That Could Be Missing A Clad Layer

U.S. coin denominations from the dime on up through the dollar coin have been made with various types of clad compositions since 1965.

The United States Mint has made coins with various types of clad compositions, including:

  • Copper-nickel clad coins — The most common type, used for making dimes, quarters, half dollars, and dollar coins.
  • Silver-copper clad coins — Used for striking Kennedy half dollars from 1965 through 1970 and Eisenhower dollars from 1971 through 1976. (The silver clad composition was also used for making select 1776-1976 Bicentennial quarters, half dollars, and dollar coins.)
  • “Golden” dollars — Since 2000, the United States Mint has struck so-called golden dollars. They consist of a clad composition — with outer layers made from zinc, manganese, and nickel bonded to a pure copper core.

These are some of the different kinds of coins that have been struck with a clad composition:

  • Roosevelt dimes
  • Washington quarters
  • 50 States series quarters
  • America The Beautiful series quarters
  • Kennedy half dollars
  • Commemorative half dollars
  • Eisenhower dollars
  • Susan B. Anthony dollars
  • Golden dollars (including the Sacagawea, Presidential, and Native American dollars)

If you look at the sides of any of these coins, you should see the copper band around the edge. That copper band is the core to which the outer clad layers are bonded.


Why Are Some Coins Missing Clad Layers?

There are a handful of ways that a coin might lose its outer layer of metal.

Here are the 2 most common ways that a missing clad error coin is made:

#1 – Chemical impurities in the bonding process

Clad coins are created from bonding different metals together to form multi-layered metallic sandwiches.

When impurities get in the way during the bonding process, these impurities can cause the nickel clad layers to split off from the copper core — exposing the copper inside the sandwich. The clad layer may come off the entire coin, or it might flake off in segments. This can occur before, during, or after striking of the coin.

#2 – Manufacturing errors

Another way these missing clad errors are created involves a different type of manufacturing error…

Sometimes, error coins that are missing their outer layer of nickel clad happen when the outer strip of metal isn’t wide enough to overlap the copper core layer — which results in only part of the coin being cladded with its outer layer.


Collecting Coins With Missing Clad Errors

Collecting clad coins with a missing clad layer is very popular — especially for the 50 State Quarters series.

Many collectors are even trying to build entire sets of 50 of the state quarters with one example of a quarter from each state missing its clad layer!

Such collections are very challenging to build and quite expensive, too. For example, the 2000 Maryland quarter missing its nickel clad layer is worth as much as $1,000!


How Much Is A Coin With Missing Clad Layer Worth?

Values for these cool error coins vary, depending on the individual coin.

What matters most is:

  • How much of the clad layer is absent
  • Which side of the coin is the affected side

Coins that are missing clad layers exhibit this defect to varying degrees and are classified by how much of the outer clad layer is missing and which side of the coin it is missing on. For example:

  • A coin that is missing half of its clad layer on its reverse (tails) side is described as “50% missing reverse clad.”
  • A coins that is missing the entire face of the outer layer on its obverse (heads) side is described as “100% missing obverse clad” or simply “obverse missing clad.”

Believe it or not, partial errors (such as 50% or 75% missing clad layer coins) are actually scarcer than errors on which the entire face of nickel clad is missing. But usually, these are worth less because collectors generally show preference to errors in which an entire face is absent its outer clad layer.

No matter how much or little of the clad layer is missing or where on the coin it is absent from, all missing clad layer error coins are very scarce and highly collectible.

Values are almost always $75 to $100 or more for missing clad layer coins. In fact, many of the 50 States Quarters that are missing the clad layer on the reverse (or “state side”) sell for $200 and up!


Missing Clad Layer Errors vs. Split Planchet Errors vs. Lamination Errors

Error coins with a missing clad layer aren’t numismatically categorized with split planchet errors — which are similar in nature but different.

Split planchet errors occur on solid metal coins (such as alloyed coins like bronze pennies or copper-nickel five-cent coins) and occur due to impurities in those planchets.

Split planchet errors are also similar to lamination errors — which occur when parts of the coin flake off, due to impurities or other abnormalities in the planchet.


I'm the Coin Editor here at TheFunTimesGuide. My love for coins began when I was 11 years old. I primarily collect and study U.S. coins produced during the 20th century. I'm a member of the American Numismatic Association (ANA) and the Numismatic Literary Guild (NLG) and have won multiple awards from the NLG for my work as a coin journalist. I'm also the editor at the Florida United Numismatists Club (FUN Topics magazine), and author of Images of America: The United States Mint in Philadelphia (a book that explores the colorful history of the Philadelphia Mint). I've contributed hundreds of articles for various coin publications including COINage, The Numismatist, Numismatic News, Coin Dealer Newsletter, Coin Values, and CoinWeek. I've authored nearly 1,000 articles here at The Fun Times Guide to Coins (many of them with over 50K shares), and I welcome your coin questions in the comments below!

126 thoughts on “Coins That Are Missing A Clad Layer Are Rare & Valuable Errors Worth Hundreds Of Dollars!

  1. OMG…there’s so much to learn about coin collecting! I’ve been staring at coins for 2 weeks now, hoping that by the time I come across an error coin it will just jump out at me! I came across this dime, but I can’t tell if it’s a 1994 or a 1944. I was wondering if you could tell me why it looks dark-like a penny almost? It’s the same on both sides…

    1. Hi, Crackerjack9,

      I’m glad you’re having fun! Buckle up, because what you think you’ve learned in two weeks will even pale in comparison to what you learn in two years or two decades in this hobby! It’s truly a lifetime endeavor and one in which you will always learn something new every day, if you wish! I’m excited for you and am glad you’re enjoying the journey.

      As for these dimes, the image is a little grainy to tell the date on the top right or bottom one, but both of two coins exhibit what we’d call post-mint damage, or PMD. The top right coin has multiple surface marks and/or porosity and is worth face value. The bottom one is dark due to discoloration from environmental damage.

      The 1967 dime in the top right has appears to have been weakly struck, as noted in the mushiness of the some letters in the motto IN GOD WE TRUST. If I could zoom in closer I could tell you more about this and even look for signs of this being a doubled die. Would you please resubmit clear closeups of each of these three dimes so I can help with date identification and also look at the 1967 closer?

      Thank you!

  2. hi josh
    i came across your article and wanted to reach out with my finding of this 2002 d dime.
    curious to know what your opinion may be? thanks pal.

    1. Hi, Lefty!

      Looks like your 2002 Roosevelt dime has seen a hard life, and its overall unusual appearance is caused by environmental damage, or discoloration caused by chemicals, fumes, moisture, of exposure to other elements. This piece is worth face value but has a story to tell!

      Best wishes,

  3. Hey! came across your forum while trying to find information about an odd quarter I found. First noticed it when it wouldn’t fit into the meter I was trying to pay. It is too thick, there is copper it looks like just around the egdes.

    1. Hi, Lauren —

      This is what many folks call a “dryer coin,” or one whose edge has been flattened likely through a process of centrifugal force as in spinning around inside a clothes dryer. There are other post-Mint ways the achieve this affect through belt sanding, a process of metal manipulation known as spooning, and other alteration methods, too. But unfortunately it’s not a Mint error, though it it is a neat find!

      Best wishes,

  4. Hi there, I was wondering if you could identify if this was a clad missing dime or not. Its 1965 and I’m pretty sure it a d but it might be a p . Thanks in advance

    1. Hi, Chad —

      While there are no mintmarks on any 1965 US coins to identify them as “P” or “D,” your piece appears to be a darkly toned but otherwise normal dime with cladding intact.

      Best wishes,

  5. Hi there i have a 1980 d dime that both sides (entire dime) is missing outer layer. Can u tell me if this is worth anything below are pics

    1. Hi, Ocgurly —

      It looks like your dime was dipped in or exposed to a particularly caustic acid. The surface is quite porous and pitted. Therefore, while the top nickel-based cladding appears to be missing, it’s unfortunately not due to a cladding error but rather post-Mint alteration. This piece is worth face value.

      Interesting find though!

      1. And thanks again for your response and feedback. I thought it was interesting too. Looks like ill be throwing it back into my wallet. Lol

        1. Hi Ocgurly,

          Yes, sometimes the finds wind up being tossed back into the open waters!

          Best wishes,

    1. Hi, Coin Man —

      I’m afraid I don’t see a photo here. Would you please repost it?

      Thank you!

      1. Do you happen to know what is going on with this penny it is a little weird

        1. Hi, Michael —

          What you have here is a damaged Lincoln cent with heavy porosity and environmental damage. It’s worth face value.

          Best wishes,

          1. >do you happen to know what is going on with this nickle )

          2. Hi, Michael —

            When I first saw these photos of your nickel I was quite hopeful it was a die-trial/adjustment strike. But the more I look at this up close it appears to exhibit a lot of surface porosity, staining, and countless deep linear gouges or striations leading me to believe this is rather a severe case of post-Mint damage. If that’s the case and I’m positive it is, your piece is worth face value.

            Thank you for reaching out,


          4. Okay thanks for your input and advice the picture doesn’t really do it justice it looks like it has scratches from the picture but it’s not scratches it looks more Ray’s or something I can’t find the right terminology are the better way to put it but I appreciate your opinion

  6. Thoughts on these coins?

    1. Hi, Dreamwalker —

      The photos are blurry but from what I see these are heavily worn Roosevelt dimes. If they’re from the copper-nickel clad period (1965-date; weighing around 2.20-2.30 grams) they’re worth face value.

      Best wishes,

  7. I saw this post and had to join. I have a 2014 dime that might be missing the clad layer. I’m attaching pictures of both sides next to a dime with no layer missing, along with an edge view, for your reference. What do you think?

    1. Hi, Impu —

      The dime you’re referring to isn’t missing a layer but rather has some colorful toning most likely due to how or where the coin was stored. If it has any circulation wear, it is worth face value.

      Thank you for reaching out,

  8. Hi Josh,
    I have a few questions about Kennedy half, but i couldn’t find an article about these.

    First I have three halves 1967-1968, their colors appear to be different and it looks like not copper layer on them (pics 1-2 top row, second row 1974 for comparison), and pic 3 showing rims.

    I also have a 1974 Kenny half that also the color appears to be different from the other 1974 and the face looks reddish (pics 4-5-6)

    My other question is also about 1974. Is it normal that in some 1974 half the face be on the copper but in others the face is in the nickel layer

    1. Hi, Richard —

      Thank you for reaching out! The coloration issues you mentioned here have to do mainly with environmental issues — the exposure of each piece to various elements over the years. The coppery look on the high points of the 1974 half is due to the coin’s contact with something caustic or acidic. Only the high points are affected so the coin was in direct contact with something that was rather rigid — not pliable and able to have bent into the coin’s lower surfaces, such as the fields (the flat areas without the design elements).

      Overall, your pieces appear rather consistent with the appearance of many circulated half dollars of their age. As you may know the pre-1971 halves contain silver, with the pieces struck from 1965-70 carrying a 40% silver composition. Those are presently worth around $3 to $4 or so apiece. The ones shown here struck from 1971 on are safe to spend if you wish.

      Stay healthy,

  9. Hi Josh, can you please take a look at this quarter that I have come across that appears to be missing it’s clad. It sure looks different than the regular one on the bottom.

    1. Hi, Curtis —

      It appears your darker quarter has some moderate environmental damage that affects the color of your coin. This piece is worth face value…

      Thank you for reaching out,

  10. Hi again Josh, is it common to see a 69 D penny in such good condition that is in circulation?

    1. Nice, Curtis —

      While they’re rather tough to find an ordinary pocket change uncirculated pennies from decades ago often get turned out into circulation fresh from a bank roll or collection that was parceled out. A typical uncirculated 1969-D Lincoln cent is worth about 10-20 cents.

      Best wishes,

  11. Hi Josh, can you tell me if they’re is something errored on this 76 D dime?

    1. Hi, Curtis —

      It looks like your Roosevelt dime may have been struck a tad bit misaligned… here’s more info:

      Pieces like this — with this degree of off-centeredness — are really pretty common and generally don’t have any extra value.

      Best wishes,

  12. I got this 2018 dime back in change but looks weird is this a clad issue or something different?

    1. Hi Donna,

      Actually it is a form of toning from being exposed to chemicals/agents — possibly environmental (sulfur, chlorine, gas fumes, etc.) — or extreme heat. I’m not sure where this coin has been stored, but it seems it reacted to something. It’s worth a dime, but it’s important to note that some collectors do pay premiums for natural toning on mint-condition coins.

      Best wishes,

  13. Can you provide any feedback on this 1978 quarter? It has the “step” you refer to in your clad explanation where the inner core is exposed in very small area, but is more yellowish than orange in color.

    1. Hi, Kim —

      I’m afraid I don’t see any photos here for reference… Would you please try posting them again?

      Thank you,

      1. Hi Josh,

        It won’t let me upload the photos. Is there an alternate way to get them to you to view? I looked at this much closer last night and it is a very odd coin.

        Thanks for your response.

        1. Hi, Kim —

          Images uploaded here should be either JPG or PNG format and 2mb or less in size and can be attached by clicking on the little rectangular photo attach button near the message field.

          Hope this helps!

  14. Hi Josh. Happy Labor Day 🙂 What do you think this could be worth? Worn but missing a nickel layer. Other side is normal.

    1. Hi, Seymour!

      I hope you and yours had a great Labor Day! Unfortunately this isn’t a missing clad coin but rather a situation where the coin was discolored due to environmental damage. It’s common where a coin like this sits on a surface for some months or years, exposed to caustic agents (sulfur fumes, for example) that end up corroding away one surface of the coin. Look closely, and you can see the porosity on the surface here. While worth face value, I totally see why this one caught your attention.

      Best wishes,

  15. Hey Josh! I stumbled across your article and now I am curious to see what you would say this is worth.
    It is a 2019 D National Park quarter with a ~25% missing reverse clad. Other side is normal.

    1. Hi, Viridium —

      This coin may need closer evaluation from the error experts at CONECA (, because I can’t tell in this photo of the coin has erratic discoloration, or is rather missing a clad layer due to an error or post-mint chemical removal.

      Fingers crossed you can get an answer,

  16. Hello! I found this New Hampshire quarter today and was wondering if it was a cladding issue or environmental. It’s the same on both sides. Thanks for your time!

    1. Hi, Kathryn —

      I’m afraid it’s an environmental issue, but I see why it caught your eye!

      Keep on searching!

  17. I have a question about a coin has anyone ever seen this

    1. Hi, Brittain —

      Yes, what you have is a coin that appears to have been sanded or otherwise heavily — maybe intentionally — abraded (aggressively worn) after it left the mint. While worth face value, this coin could tell quite a story of it could talk!

      Best wishes,

  18. Hey question for you. I was going through my oldies but goodies and saw this. Do you think this is probably post mint damage ? Thats what I thought but then I weighed it and it’s only 2.5gs . https s://

    1. Hi, Keaton —

      Yes, unfortunately it is only post-Mint damage; the lower weight is caused by missing metal from the corrosion and other pieces of missing metal evident here. It looks like someone may have once tried passing this off as a dime either to fit into a vending machine or perhaps a roll of dimes.

      Best wishes,

  19. Hi! I have a 2006 P North Dakota Quarter that I think was struck on a nickel planchet. First, I thought it was a broadstrike since it has no ridges, but the coin is a just a tiny, tiny bit smaller than a regular quarter. The edges are moistly copper, appears to be about 75%, and super smooth. Obverse shows flattened buffalo. Can you please give me your thoughts on this one? Will upload photos but it’s not working at the moment. Thank you!

    1. Hi, Janet —

      Sure, once I see photos of the coin and can determine what is going on with it I’d be glad to offer my opinion.


      1. Thank you, but it won’t allow me to load images on this platform for some strange reason. I’m signed in and trying to load Jpg’s and I’ve tried various sizes. Any ideas?

        1. Hi, Janet —

          Usually JPG images of less than 2mb should upload via the little rectangle near the edge of the comment box.

          Hope this helps!

      2. Thank you, but it won’t allow me to load images on this platform for some strange reason. I’m signed in and trying to load Jpg’s and I’ve tried various sizes. Any ideas?

  20. 1992 P Quarter missing the reverse “layer”, just exposed copper and 1/2 the thickness that it should be. Thoughts?

    1. Hi Gagilmer —

      It looks like someone planed off the back half of the coin, but for what reason eludes me. What an interesting find though!

      Best wishes,

  21. Hi there, These photos are from a previous message relating to a 2006 P North Dakota quarter, which I believe is struck on a nickel planchet. Thanks for your help.

    1. Hi Janet —

      It looks like somebody planed/sanded this coin and its edges, which also explains the broad and unusual wear patterns on the faces. While it’s worth face value, I see why this coin caught your eye!


  22. Hi! I have a quarter that I think is worth taking a look at. Found it in my change. Let me know what you think! Thank you

    1. Hi, Jackson —

      While I see why this caught your eye, the discoloration and possible flaking of metal appears in the photos to have been caused by post-mint environmental damage.

      Best wishes,

  23. I have a 1965 dime that appears copper colored and is very thin and light weight. It appears to be the “middle” if a regular dime. The surface feels rough and there is no definitive edge like on a regular coin. Is this a “missing clad” coin?

    1. Hi, Joy —

      I’d need to please see a couple clear photos of your coin to give you a definitive answer; it could be a missing clad coin OR it might be that it was damaged/corroded through intentional abuse or exposure to caustic environmental elements.

      Best wishes,

      1. I sent pictures, I guess you didn’t get them? Here you go…..

        1. Hi, Joy!

          I didn’t see these photos; thanks for sending them. This coin appears to have porosity, pitting, and discoloration consistent with environmental damage. If that’s the case, this coin would be worth its face value.

          Best wishes,

          1. Hey Josh,
            Respectfully, I disagree and I think you would too if you saw the coin. It is definitely not damaged or pitted, the pictures just aren’t depicting the actual condition/appearance. Is there a way that I can get it in your hands? I am so confident that this is the middle layer of a dime. If I can’t get it in your hands, do you know what it may be worth if that were the case?

          2. Hi, Joy —

            Absolutely, coins don’t always appear in photos as they do in-hand… I’ll say that even if it’s the copper core of the coin showing, if the outer layers are missing due to post-mint alterations, it’s still not considered an error or has any extra value. However, if it can be determined that this is the copper core and that there were no chemical influence or other post-mint alterations that stripped the outer layers away after the coin had left the mint, then the coin could be worth more.

            While I don’t personally evaluate coins in-hand via TheFunTimeGuide you could always submit your coin to the error and variety experts at CONECA (

            Good luck,

  24. Hi Josh! I have this dime in my collection and was looking for some quick thoughts on whether or not it may be missing its clad layers. The coin itself does not vary in weight from other dimes of it’s year nor does it seem to be thinner, yet there is no visual indication of layers within the edge and both sides of the coin are completely brown. As far as I’m aware this dime has been tucked away in a sealed jar with other dimes (all seemingly normal) for the last couple of years, but the possibility of environmental impact being the culprit is obviously still very likely as I am unsure of the coin’s history beyond that.
    A second opinion would be greatly appreciated 🙂

    I’ve included some photos of the coin along with photos of a normal dime for reference


    1. Hi, Kelsey —

      I appreciate the detailed images and measurements here! Based on what I’m seeing it appears to me to be a normal dime with indications of environmental damage/discoloration and heavy wear on the rims either revealing the copper layer underneath or darker discoloration (I can’t tell for sure in the images which). However, I see sufficient evidence of the nickel-based outer layer to suggest that this originally coin left the mint intact.

      I hope my opinion is helpful!

    2. Here are images of the edges as well with the bottom image being the coin in question:

  25. Hello Josh, hoping you can give me an insightful opinion here. In the picture I have a 1997 D Washington quarter sitting in contrast to a 1776-1976 Bicentennial for color comparison. The 1997 stands out to me remarkably by its color gradient. It appears to have a “rose-gold” sheen to it rather than the other clad errors I’ve seen. It’s not brown, rusty, nor does it seem like environmental degradation. What do you think?

    1. Hi, Boobalouie —

      The site should permit you to upload JPG and PNG images up to 2mb in size by clicking on the rectangular photo upload icon near the comment box.

      I look forward to assisting with your question further once I can see your quarter and can offer an educated opinion!

      Best wishes,

  26. I came across 1963 Jefferson nickel that weighs 2.8 and is very thin. The tails side looks like sun rays shooting out of the building or the lettering has been stretched down. The front has no rim around it. Was wondering if this was done at the mint and how.

    1. Hi, Jeannine —

      I’d need to see both sides of the coin to be sure, please, but it looks like your coin was subjected to acid, which peeled away the outer layers of the coin. This is a remarkably common form of post-mint damage on nickels, but it nevertheless is eye-catching!

      Best wishes,

      1. Here’s the other side of the nickel.Someone had talent to acid dip one side and not the other, makes me think. Thank you.

        1. Hi, Jeannine —

          In this photo the obverse (heads side) also appears in the photo to have been affected by what I suspect to be acid dipping. I note this in the apparent porosity across the surface. From what I see here this piece is consistent with acid-dipping or chemical abrasion.

          Those are my two cents based on the images…




      2. Hi, Tracy —

        Your 2000-P Maryland quarter has some significant discoloration from environmental damage (possibly exposure to intense heat) and is worth face value.

        Thank you for reaching out,

    1. Hi, Bob —

      Would you please post clear photos of your coin here so I can further advise?

      Thank you!

        Thanks Josh!

        1. Hi, Bob —

          Thanks for posting the images; the coin appears to be a regular quarter with discoloration most likely caused by exposure to caustic agents in the environment.

          Best wishes,

  28. Hi Bob!

    I have a collection of coins I started about 15 years ago and only collected for a short time. I recently decided to venture out and look in my time capsule. I have some pieces that are no mint and state quarters, etc, but this one quarter I can not find. any advice would be greatly appreciated. it is stamped “PG”

    1. Hi, Rebecca!

      The “PG” is a post-mint counter-stamp and may add very nominal value to your coin in the eyes of those who collect such pieces as novelty collectibles.


      1. Thanks Josh!
        My next question here is >>>bare with me im new at this and trying to learn as much as i can with resources that are available reight now but are these quarters worth taking a look at or are they just wear and tear,,(mind you i tried picking out the most unique ones.

        1. Hi, Rebecca —

          If the comment with “these quarters” was meant to be paired with an image of, say, two or three quarters, I’m afraid I don’t see that photo here. Would you please repost it?

          Thank you,

  29. Hello. I recently found a 1984 and a 1987 quarter in my pocket that was obviously different. The 1984 is also starting to lose the reverse side clad and you can see the split forming. How do I find the value for this coin?

    1. Hi, Briant —

      It’s a little tough to see the edge of the quarter in the first picture but it appears to have a post-Mint alteration in which some of the metal had been channeled out.

      The other quarter appears to have damage from exposure to intense heat; it may have been in a fire.

      Both of these quarters are safe to spend if you wish to…

      Thank you for reaching out,

      1. Do quarters separate under I tense heat? I really thought I had something. I just started researching coins last week but I have a few that I know are valuable. The pics are of the same coin. The area you see as chiseled is just a discoloration. I appreciate your feedback and I will post my other quarters for more info thank you.

        1. Hi, Briant —

          Quarters (as well as dimes) made since 1965 are made from a copper-nickel clad composition, and these layers will bubble and/or split under intense heat. Exposure to extreme heat also causes dark, mottled discoloration.

          Hope this helps a little,

          1. Yes it does. I just started researching coins and errors and I knew it was too good to be true. I realize I have alot to learn. If you were just start g out hunting rolls what would your go to coin denomination be and why? I greatly appreciate any advice you might jave for me. Thank you.

          2. Hi, Briant,

            I’ve actively involved been in the hobby since 1992, and I learn something new every day!!!! That’s one of the fun things about collecting coins — there’s always something new to discover, whether it be a type of coin from some obscure time and place or a piece of knowledge about the coins that pass through our hands everyday.

            From my personal experience, I’d suggest starting off with rolls of pennies and nickels — they’re relatively inexpensive to buy as rolls and offer a larger quantity of coins per roll that increases your odds of finding things that are worthwhile. If you’ve got a little more time, money, and patience, you might try searching rolls of dimes, quarters, and half dollars in the pursuit of silver or the one-off varieties and errors that may crop up.

            Here’s a link where you’ll find lists of coins worth more than face value for each circulating denomination in the US:

            Good luck!

  30. Hi I am mjke lawson I have a 2008 Hawaii state quarter and all of it clad is gone I also have a 1967 dime that has error on the back of it and haven’t seen any like mine any were can you help me out what they r weather and where to state to sell them thank you so much

    1. Hi, Mike —

      Would you please post clear photos of these coins so I can get a better look at what’s going on with them?

      Thank you,

  31. I found this a few years ago and have been trying to find some info on it. Is this typical of a coin missing both clads? Any guess on value? Thanks

    1. Hi, Wardaddy —

      This quarter has evidence of environmental damage seen not just through heavy (brownish) surface discoloration but also its light porosity. The coin’s clad plating does appear within a light surface scrape across part of Washington’s face. This coin is worth face value and is safe to spend.

      Thanks for reaching out!

  32. Hey there! I just found a nickel that may be subject to this issue, I’d love it if you could take a look! I’m not sure if this is what’s going on with this coin but it’s very interesting.

    1. Hi, Devon —

      This one is an interesting find. However, nickels — while containing copper — aren’t made from layers of cladding (like dimes and quarters), but rather contain a blended alloy. It appears to be post-mint discoloration from environmental damage…

      Thanks for reaching out,

  33. Hello Although. I’ve always looked at coins & saved the ones that looked weird. I am going to get into it a bit closer now . Anyway I recently found this dime in amongst the stuff . Looks to me like the clad is missing I just ordered a digital microscope so hopefully I will be able to document better in the near future. Thanks for your time.

    1. Hi, theslowride —

      Your 2000-D Roosevelt dime is dark due to environmental damage — the discoloration is similar to what is usually seen on coins exposed to intense heat.

      At any rate, this piece is worth its face value and is safe to spend if you wish.


  34. So I found this many years ago before I had a Cell Phone or a Computer. 25+ years. Took it to a local Coin /Jewelry shop & he said it was junk. So I bought the plastic case from him. @ one point when I 1st looked it up it was still a unknown, Now I think its a well established CUD . (I got the rotation right this time)


    This one is hard for me to tell if it’s some post mint damage or the real deal, partial missing clad layer. Rotating it in the light, the coin still exhibits the cart wheels all the way around seen on an undamaged coin. Seems like every other coin i’ve seen like this doesn’t do that which is why I must ask, what do you think?

    1. Hi, Corpy —

      This 1976 Bicentennial half dollar has extensive post-mint damage that appears to have been caused by exposure either to corrosive chemicals or intense heat (fire, most likely); in this case I’m leaning toward heat exposure given the apparent spalling of the outer layer of metal and darkish discoloration, which on copper-nickel clad coins is usually a telltale sign of exposure to high temperatures. This piece is worth face value and is safe to spend if you wish.



        Thanks Josh. Sorry the pics were so bad.

        1. That’s ok, Corpy! The first helped me diagnose the coin and these only further confirm my original thoughts… Fire damage or perhaps environmental damage due to exposure to caustic chemicals.

  36. I found this quarter in my searching for w ones. Is it worth anything? Both sides are like

    1. Hi, Rhonda —

      The coppery-colored quarter appears to have some environmental discoloration and is safe to spend.

      Thanks for reaching out!

  37. I’m not sure if my 1991 penny is truly missing the clad layer. My father in law left his coins to me and I found a penny that doesn’t have any copper layer to it obverse or reverse. I can scratch the coin and see some copper coloring. It doesn’t have any Jez or nasty spots like ones I’ve looked up that were done by people in acid or other things. How can I tell if this is worth anything?


    2. Hi, Kristina —

      The milky coloration on your 1991-D penny is caused by environmental damage and unfortunately adds no monetary value to this coin…

      Thank you for reaching out,

  38. Thank you so much for the very informative article. I have a question though. In the article you said that coins missing their clad layer aren’t numismatically categorized, so are those coins graded?

    1. Hi, Mountain Girl —

      The quote here is missing its context, which in its entirety is “Error coins with a missing clad layer aren’t numismatically categorized with split planchet errors — which are similar in nature but different.” All I am essentially saying is they aren’t considered split planchet errors, which occur with solid alloy coins — not clad coins, composed of layers of different metal.

      Indeed, clad coins missing a clad layer are absolutely of value and worth grading!

      Thank you for reaching out and I hope this explanation is helpful!


    1. Hi, Levi —

      I don’t seem to see any photos of the coins you are asking about. Please feel free to post a few photos of two or three coins for me to check out.


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