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Trying to determine a coin’s value?
Before you can determine the value of a coin, you first need to know the “grade” of your coin.
In fact, coin grade is simply one of a number of factors that must be determined in order to find the true value of your coin.
Professional Coin Grading Services
Determining the grade of a coin is very serious business!
There are professional coin agencies and experts who do coin grading for a living… full-time… for pay.
These 3 professional coin grading services are the most widely respected and trusted:
- Professional Coin Grading Service (PCGS) – The Standard For The Rare Coin Industry
- American Numismatic Association Certification Service (ANACS) – America’s Oldest Grading Service
- Numismatic Guaranty Corporation (NGC) – The World’s Largest and Most Respected Third-Party Coin Grading Service
How The Pro’s Grade Coins
It’s not as easy as you might think. In fact, the process of determining the value of a coin is a very complicated process.
You see, there is a somewhat complicated formula that coin experts use to accurately determine “grade”.
Check out this PCGS coin grading video to see exactly how your coins get graded:
The biggest thing to remember when trying to find the value of coins is that a qualified coin expert must visually examine your coin, in order to determine its true value.
This can be done, in person at a coin show or a coin dealer’s office OR via U.S. mail using one of the agencies above.
These 2 videos walk you through the steps to send your coins to PCGS:
Basic Coin Grades Explained
Coin grades are determined by the levels of wear that a coin has. These levels of wear are what make it possible for coin collectors to determine a coin’s ultimate value.
A coin with less wear generally has a higher value than the same coin with less wear.
Since you can find detailed information about coin wear in various coin books and online, I will simply summarize the basic coin grades (or levels of “wear”) here:
Coin grades and their abbreviations:
- FDC (Fleur-de-Coin) – Absolutely flawless, there is no sign of wear, no scratches or fingerprints
- Unc (Uncirculated) – In new condition, as issued by the U.S. Mint, but not perfect
- EF or XF (Extremely Fine) – There are slight surface marks or wear that is visible upon close examination
- VF (Very Fine) – There is some wear on the raised surfaces, but the main features are still sharp and have good detail
- F (Fine) – There is considerable wear on the raised surfaces, but the main features are still sharp and have good detail
- fr (Fair) – Very worn, but the main features are still distinguishable
- poor (Poor or Worn) – Some features and lettering are worn away
Remember, coin grading is not a science. It is not precise. For that reason, it’s wise to get the opinion of more than one coin professional — in order to determine the exact grade of your coin.
If you’re interested in grading coins yourself at home, start here!
I like to help people find unique ways to do things in order to save time & money — so I write about “outside the box” ideas that most wouldn’t think of. As a lifelong dog owner, I often share my best tips for living with and training dogs. I worked in Higher Ed over 10 years before switching gears to pursue activities that I’m truly passionate about. I’ve worked at a vet, in a photo lab, and at a zoo — to name a few. I enjoy the outdoors via bicycle, motorcycle, Jeep, or RV. You can always find me at the corner of Good News & Fun Times as publisher of The Fun Times Guide (32 fun & helpful websites).
I have a penny in 1944
Hello, Norma —
1944 cents in worn condition are worth 3 to 5 cents.
Best,
Josh
My grandmother pasted away and in a few boxes I have some coins one says its 1861 US Gold Coin and I don’t really know how to go about finding out if it is really or not. Any way you come help?
Or point me in the right direction?
Taylor
Hello, Taylor —
My condolences to you on the loss of your grandma…
The best way to start sorting those coins is to see what types of coins you have and whether or not they are largely common or have any significant value.
I urge you to check out this page: https://coins.thefuntimesguide.com/us-coins/
It has links to coins of all six major U.S. denominations (cent through dollar) of coins that are worth more than face value.
If you want to sell your coins, here are tips on finding reputable coin dealers: https://coins.thefuntimesguide.com/coin_dealer/
And here’s a searchable list of good coin dealers around the country; this list isn’t exhaustive, but it is a decent starting point: https://www.pngdealers.org/component/jtagmembersdirectory/?view=browselist&Itemid=544
Best,
Josh
On the package it came it says https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/8da8a49b8b7c03bc3d057e78ded6b4eb989196f3d4a38a7e319b3e6cb3c0f61d.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/ea5d6fdca11b5bddcdd1afab1a7bb273c219688fc3f12bfecb1d8494a7df5a7a.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/ae9ccb2058fe64f60bab069680247ad5b4ab6eefa76ba2eaa95ee18734f42d2e.jpg 65 I did a little research on it only 6002 were made and it’s the one that 90% gold && 10% copper. I just don’t understand where to take it to figure out. Sorry so many questions just no idea about any of this
When it comes to old gold coins I’m always extra cautious because there are so many replicas floating around out there. Without seeing your coin in person or having the ability to weigh it, I’m a bit hesitant. There are some surface issues with that piece that lead me to wonder if it is authentic.
Then again, it could be a lighting issue — very common matter when photographing coins!
I suggest taking it to a coin dealer. In fact, I will say this right now — don’t go to jewelers or pawn shops. Coin dealers are the most knowledgeable when it comes to coins and will pay you more in general.
As mentioned in a previous reply to you, I suggest this list for searching coin dealers near you: https://www.pngdealers.org/component/jtagmembersdirectory/?view=browselist&Itemid=544
Here are tips on finding a reputable coin dealer: https://coins.thefuntimesguide.com/coin_dealer/
Good luck!
Josh
I just purchased an uncirculated 1945 S Jefferson Nickel. Any idea of the value?
Hi, Baldyriek!
That all depends on how high of an uncirculated grade we’re talking. Its value could range from about $3 to $5 to more than $150, contingent on its Mint State grade.
Best wishes,
Josh
Do I need to have someone grade this coin to get this information?
Hi, Baldyriek –
If you see very few surface marks, it might behoove you to get it graded. Otherwise, if it appears to have some nicks, spots, or other imperfections, it’s likely a “standard” uncirculated issue and is worth roughly what I suggested above on the lower end of the price range — $5 to $10.
I hope this info is helpful,
Josh
Hi Joshua,
I am currently in southern Ca, Orange County. I am looking for some one to authenticate my error coins to sell. I cracked open the piggy bank and found some serious treasures.
Do you know of a reputable appraiser and Coin dealer in the Orange County Area that can assist with a market trend plan?
Hello Cheryl —
You are in total luck… One of the most well-known error coin specialists in the entire country is located in Encino… Fred Weinberg. I’ve interviewed him before for various articles, as have countless others. He is he go-to expert. Here’s his link: https://www.fredweinberg.com/
Best wishes!
-Josh
Hi Jason,
I have a collection of modern error Lincoln cents I need authenticated/graded for immediate sale and auction
I am currently in Northern Cal. 45 miles north east of Sacramento. I am a novice to the coin rolling world, but believe I have some valuable errors. 1969-S, 1992 C-AM, 1970-S Lg date DDO. 1972 DDO, 1972 Ike DDO $1.
Do you know of a PCGS dealer in my area with in 200 miles that grades & purchases that I can trust?
Thanks so much
Cheryl
Good day, Cheryl —
I urge you to check out the coin dealer search engine at Professional Numismatist Guild (PNG) and the Coin Dealer Newsletter (CDN) directory that allows you to search by state. They’re both full of reputable coin dealers, the majority of whom deal with PCGS.
Here’s the PNG search engine: https://png.memberclicks.net/find-a-png-dealer
And the CDN dealer directory: https://www.greysheet.com/DealerDirectory
For more info on finding a good coin dealer, please be sure to check this article out: https://coins.thefuntimesguide.com/coin_dealer/
Wishing you the best,
Josh
Hi Joshua,
I am currently in southern Ca, Orange County. I am looking for some one to authenticate my error coins to sell. I cracked open the piggy bank and found some serious treasures.
Do you know of a reputable appraiser and Coin dealer in the Orange County Area that can assist with a market trend plan?
Hi Joshua,
I dont know if you still look into this but I have two sacagawea 2000 series coins and a 2011 Ulysses S. Grant series coins. I live in hotsprings AR and was wondering where I could get them authenticated at. I had a buddy say something about the sacagawea 2000 P and D series possibly being something quite rare and I have had both that and the 2011 D series of Ulysses S. Grant in my back pocket withing my wallet for more than a year because I see them more of a good luck charm than anything but since he brought it up I was confused and wondering if he could be right. Any ideas completely new and fairly below the level of novice.
Hi, Jake —
The 2000 P and D Sacajawea coins are actually quite common, as is the 2011-D Grant dollar. So if they are authentic, they unfortunately wouldn’t be worth much money. In fact, uncirculated examples — those never spent as money or worn through handing — are generally worth between $1.05 and $3 apiece, depending upon condition.
I’d be happy to check your coins out by photograph if you wish you upload women clear photos of the coins here.
Thank you for reaching out,
Josh
Hello I just had a question for you I was just going through some of my collection of penny’s an noticed that one of my 1997 d penny has a perfect period in-between the letters I and c in the word America have you ever seen this or heard of it?
https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/e87bacb73f6e6106da43264ba1773a4478444d0dfe46c582fa9d60b2b561e95f.jpg
Hi, Levi —
If it’s a raised dot, it’s most likely either a plating blister (common on copper-coated zinc pennies made after 1981) or a die chip (also common). Only the latter is really an error, but even then it’s a minor one that would have very little extra value — maybe $1 to $2 to an interested buyer.
Still a neat find!
Josh